Wintour's Leap

Wye Valley & Forest of Dean

User attention

The BMC has recevied a report of rocks being deliberately thrown from the Offas Dyke Path into Woodcroft Quarry. If this happens whilst you are in the quarry, make your presence known and report it to the police immediately. It is always worth considering wearing a helmet whilst climbing in quarries, but it could be a wise addition on a visit here in case of any further incidents. from 11/03/2019

Long line of west-facing crags above the Wye, rising to nearly 100 metres. Mostly quarried in the past. Mixed ethic; mainly trad but some sport. The land above the crag contains a number of private gardens.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Wildlife Trust No. of Routes: 352
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1958
Grid Reference: ST540962

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Restrictions apply from 15 March - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines nest on the far right of Fly Wall and the restriction applies to all routes to the right of Dragonfly, including Big Fly Direct and Jos'e and the Fly.

Parking and Approach

Please park considerately in Woodcroft village (as always don't obstruct gates, driveways or the road itself) or at the small parking area on Lancaut Lane.

For further access information see here.

Area information

Weather Information

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