Wintour's Leap

Wye Valley & Forest of Dean

User attention

Unfortunately the keypad lock on the entrance to the quarry at Wintour's Leap seems to have seized up  - we will try to get it fixed as soon as possible but in the mantime, one of the other approaches needs to be used (The Easy Way down, the Lancaut path via the chapel or the path from the South that leads underneath the Forbidden Wall and Fly Wall).

Please don't damage the fencing or attempt to enter through the neighbouring garden - either of these risk damaging what has so far been a successful access arrangement.

from 20/10/2019

Long line of west-facing crags above the Wye, rising to nearly 100 metres. Mostly quarried in the past. Mixed ethic; mainly trad but some sport. The land above the crag contains a number of private gardens.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Wildlife Trust No. of Routes: 352
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1958
Grid Reference: ST540962

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

The peregrines haven't nested this year so the restriction has been lifted.

Parking and Approach

Please park considerately in Woodcroft village (as always don't obstruct gates, driveways or the road itself) or at the small parking area on Lancaut Lane.

For further access information see here.

Area information

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Anonymous User
Fly Wall and the quarry are OK to use according to other climbers we met there yesterday...who shared the access code for the gate at the top of the quarry
Anonymous User
The gate lock is still not rectified. Gained access, but is now sticking. Needs sorting asap
Anonymous User
Visited 8 Feb 2020 and found the gate keypad in good working order :)