Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Restrictions apply from
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest on the far right of Fly Wall and the restriction applies to all routes to the right of Dragonfly, including Big Fly Direct and Jos'e and the Fly.
Parking and Approach
A gate has been installed in the fence at the top of Woodcroft Quarry, left of where previously there was a gap which allowed climbers to get through. The gate requires a code to enter and the current code for the lock is 157 - any changes to the code will be listed here.
The gate has been installed due to issues with anti-social behaviour at Woodcroft Quarry and Fly Wall so it is very important that climbers ensure the gate closes behind them after using it. Please only enter and exit at this part of the crag using this access point.