COVID-19

As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.

St. Govan's Head

Pembroke South

The headland and surrounding cliffs at the most southerly tip of Pembroke. Excellent rock in typical Pembroke atmosphere.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: International CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Ministry of Defence No. of Routes: 300
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1976
Grid Reference: SR972929

The seasonal restriction due to nesting Choughs between the routes "Draught Dodger" and "D-Day" .

Feb. 2018 - more minor rock falls - beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - dodgy blocks in first break at about 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 1 August.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restrcted area but please do not linger below this section. 
 

St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac inclusive.

 

 

 

 

Group Advice

Not suitable

Area information

South Pembroke is one of the best sea cliff climbing areas in Britain featuring abseil approaches, amazing scenery, and a huge number of fantastic routes - it is also extremely important for wildlife, especially the nesting bird colonies. There are many special access arrangements and seasonal climbing restrictions. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. Pembrokeshire National Park produce a very useful leaflet with all the current restrictions http://pcnpa.org.uk/Files/files/Recreation/Climbing_eng.pdf NB- Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually. Please check the notice boards in Stack Rocks, Broad Haven South, Stackpole Quay or St Govan’s car parks. The PCNPA also produce an excellent annual information leaflet illustrating the restricted areas on a clear map -available at the car parks and Mrs Westons cafe in Bosherston Range East This area is an Army firing range, although they do not use exploding ammunition. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on alternate Mon/Wed and Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/castlemartin-firing-notice--2 Range West 2020 Arrangements All climbers wanting to climb here in 2020 must attend a safety briefing. Range West is a live firing range and unexploded ordnance and other dangerous military items are found on parts of Range West. The dates for the 2020 briefings are: 05-03-20 at 18.00 07-03-20 at 10.00 09-4-20 at 18.00 10-04-20 at 10.00 (Good Friday) 21-05-20 at 18.00 23-05-20 at 10.00 (Bank holiday and BMC Pembroke climbing Festival) 01-08-20 at 10.00 As always all the briefings are at Castlemartin Army Camp. Please turn up a few minutes early to allow time to pass through the security gate, etc. In addition the non- firing days for 2020 are April 4th to April 19th and no firing at all on any days in August, which means access to everyone for Range East and to briefed climbers to Range West at all times for those dates. All the briefings are held at the Castlemartin Army Camp, postcode SA71 5EB. As usual turn up about 10 minutes early to allow for parking (next to the big Chieftain tanks!) and to get through the security gates. Since Easter 2013 year round access is allowed to Range West for briefed climbers, on non-firing days only (normally most weekends and Bank holidays). This area is also used for live-firing but has a different arrangement for access to Range East, involving attending a PCNPA/MoD briefing and obtaining a permit to climb. Climbers must attend an annual briefing to obtain a valid permit. IMPORTANT - LIVE high explosive ammunition is fired on Range West and it is paramount that climbers (and all users) stay away from and DO NOT touch anything metal. For the same reasons belay stakes should not be placed. If you think belay stakes are required please contact the BMC who can arrange for stakes to be placed in a safe maner.

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