Chudleigh (South Face)

South Devon

High-quality (but polished!) compact limestone with many fine routes up to 40m+. Plenty of quality single and multi pitch routes across the grades and often in the rain shadow of Dartmoor.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 138
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1923
Grid Reference: SX864787

Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.

Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.

Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.

Restrictions apply from 4 April - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June). 

Parking and Approach

Take the S exit towards Chudleigh off the A38, follow the signs back to Chudleigh for about 600m passing Rock House Garden Centre on the right, (DO NOT PARK HERE), to a right turn at the police station into Rock Lane. Limited parking where the road widens by the entrance to Palace Quarry (do not block the road or park in the quarry entrance). Climbers should be aware that theft from cars has occurred in the past - avoid leaving valuables in your car if possible.

Take the footpath from a wrought-iron gate, follow a wall that follows the hillside. Where the path splits take the upper track, to a narrow neck of land. On your right is the begining of the North face. Follow a track that leads to the left, and with some scrambling you will arrive at Eeny, Meeny, Miney and Mo, further scrambling down right leads to the south face proper.

Group Advice

Commercial and educational groups wishing to climb on the South Face should contact the estate manager Alexander Clifford for permission prior to using the site: Alexander Clifford, Ugbrooke Park, Chudleigh, South Devon, TQ13 OAD Tel: 01626 852179 Email:

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Anonymous User
18/2/19 There is a large block at the top of tar baby, very dangerous and waiting to go, managed to clear ond but one still remaining.
Anonymous User
This large block is still in place. Very large, very loose. Scary one
Anonymous User
Greenmantel: just below the belay on greenmantel there is some sort of animal burrow/ set. It is possible to climb around this but please be mindful not to disrupt the potentially hibernating animals too much.
Anonymous User
Rock Road. Not Rock Lane.
Anonymous User
08/09/2023 for parking