The BMC has worked in partnership with the Countryside Agency and English Nature to initiate a managed access trial to Holwick Scar, Upper Teesdale, a crag where climbing had previously been banned for the past 20 years.

Q. Where is it?
A. Holwick Scar forms part of the Whin Sill escarpment in the remote and beautiful Upper Teesdale valley of the Northern Pennines. The crag forms part of the Upper Teesdale Site of Special Scientific Interest and supports a rich diversity of nationally rare species and relic arctic-alpine plants. The site (including the Whin Sill crags) is also of European importance, as recognised by designations of Special Area for Conservation and Special Protection Area.

Q. Which means?
A. The area has a high level of legal protection, and anyone caught damaging conservation interests can potentially be open to a hefty fine (up to £20,000) and/or imprisonment.

Q. So why can we climb there again?
A. In three words, the CRoW Act. Climbing was historically banned by the Earl of Strathmore sometime in the mid 1980’s for reasons lost in the mists of time, but the area has been mapped as ‘Open Access’ land to which the public have a statutory right of access. The BMC spotted this and began lobbying local conservation bodies to restore public access. Initially both the Countryside Agency (CA) and English Nature (EN) were hesitant to do this, and placed a temporary restriction on the crag for six months to gather more information and satisfy themselves that the BMC and climbers can deliver the proposed “managed access regime”.

Q. What is the “managed access regime”?
A. It’s a monitored 12-month trial period during which climbing is permitted on certain buttresses. Access comes with a number of concessionary guidelines negotiated by the BMC to ensure climbing does not damage the nature interests.

Q. Who actually manages the site?
A. Local area BMC volunteers Peter Hay and Alan Dougherty will be working with CA and EN staff to monitor activity and potential impacts on the crag during the trial period. This work will also involve liaison with the Strathmore Estates and the local community.

Q. How will this work at the crag?
A. The BMC hope that all climbers visiting Holwick will adhere to the following negotiated guidelines, which will be widely distributed through the local BMC network, and also available as a photo leaflet at the main crag access point.

• Do not damage or remove any vegetation – this is a statutory (and punishable) illegal offence under the Wildlife and Countryside and CRoW Acts.
• Avoid climbing onto the large vegetated ledges – they are valued havens of biodiversity.
• Do not abseil from the trees.
• Climbing is currently only permitted on the buttresses identified as 1 to 5.
• Descend from buttresses 1 to 3 down the back, and when topping-out from buttresses 4 and 5 go down the obvious large grassy gully on the right-hand side.
• When moving around underneath the buttresses stay on the obvious sheep track.
• Do not walk on any of the scree slopes.

Q. Can climbers clean the crag?
A. No. Both the CA and EN have stated that plant material should not be removed from the routes, and that climbers must avoid the obvious large plant covered ledges. Local BMC volunteers will be involved in monitoring the scar using a series of photographs taken throughout the year to assess potential impacts to vegetation.

Q. Anything else?
A. If quantifiable damage occurs to plants during or after the trial period, the access and conservation bodies have made it clear they will apply to the Local Access Forum for a permanent access restriction. If successful this will mean the indefinite loss of climbing.

So, look after the place and we’ll be able to enjoy the crag’s great routes, fantastic location and slake our “after-crankin” thirst in a great local pub for many years to come! But if we don’t take care, then there’s no-one else to blame...

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