The appearance of the celebrated Yorkshire Limestone crag on Rightmove a few weeks ago has raised questions amongst climbers. What would the sale mean for climbers’ access to this great crag and if there are issues, what can the BMC do about it?
The UK is not blessed with three-star limestone sport climbing and devotees normally make do with scruffy dales and the odd loose hold. But a few crags do indeed rise to ‘international’ status, where stature, rock quality and history come together to give a crag that would sit with the best. Kilnsey Crag, that hoods over the sleepy Wharfdale Valley, is one such crag.
The cliff’s architecture is jawdropping as it arcs steeply towards a dominating overhang, gathering exposure and steepness in equal measure. Its many climbs, trad as well as sport, are prized ticks on the mantelpiece of any committed climber. Routes such as Dominatrix, Central Wall, Mandela and Urgent Action are hard classics and on North Buttress, Northern Lights was one of the country’s first 9a routes.
It is no surprise that concerns were raised when, several weeks ago, the crag and surrounding land came on the market at a guide price of £150,000. What would a change of hands mean for access, for bolts and for climbers? Could climbing be banned or bolts removed amid concerns for liability or conservation or could the land be put to a different use that new owners felt was not compatible with climbing?
In some ways it seems unlikely that owners would stop an activity that has been carried out here for over 60 years with no issues (remember to park responsibly, everyone), but at the same time the loss of climbing here would be a terrible blow to climbing in the UK. It is worth noting that it is extremely rare for a significant crag to go on the market, so there are no precedents.
Among the most important work the BMC does, and the work that means most to its members, is its efforts to ensure climbers and walkers can enjoy responsible access to the crags and hills we love so much. For decades now a committed team of BMC access volunteers and staff has been knocking on farm doors, negotiating with landowners and stakeholders and going to meetings, all the time to put across the wishes of the communities we represent.
As such, Kilsnsey is at the top of the BMC’s access agenda. But what is the right course? We can show a history of respectful behavior towards other users and an enthusiastic willingness to support wildlife in the area. These are, hopefully, compelling arguments.
Beyond these efforts, there have been some voices that suggest the BMC should buy the crag themselves, stump up the cash to ensure climbers can climb freely on this incredible crag. This is far from the first course of action but it can’t be ruled out. This is indeed something the BMC has done in the past.
We currently own or manage eight crags. However, these acquisitions have happened only when the crags were considered to be of significant value to climbers, when they have given to us or when it was felt there was no other option. And also, at Kilnsey’s guide price of £150,000, this is an order of magnitude greater than we would have paid for any other crag before.
Through all these concerns and possibilities, the BMC is keeping a close eye on the situation and exploring all avenues while maintaining discussions with relevant parties. We are committed to doing what we can to maintain long-term access to this incredible venue.
In this situation, as it seems in most access negotiations, discretion is a necessity until the situation becomes more resolved. Active and positive discussions are taking place all the time and we will keep you up to date with developments when we can, the deadline for offers is 6 July.
Dave Turnbull, BMC’s head of access, stated that:
“Kilnsey is one of the most limestone important crags in the UK, and is very close to our hearts. The BMC already owns eight crags across England and Wales so we’re very conscious of the costs, benefits and day-to-day practicalities of land ownership. Discussions with interested parties are ongoing and we can assure climbers that we’re doing everything we can to safeguard long term access to this iconic crag.”
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