The accomplished German alpinist and ice/mixed master Robert Jasper has put up two major routes in Norway that may be the longest, hard icefalls climbed to date.

Jasper had first spotted the potential of Naeroydalen in the southern Fjordlands, a little way north east of Bergen, in 1999. Here, icefalls cascade down El Capitan sized rock faces, but being so close to the sea, the Gulf Stream and prevailing westerly winds rarely allow a good freeze. With Northern Europe experiencing bitterly cold weather this winter, temperatures down to -30°C froze everything in Norway, prompting a return visit.

 Jasper arrived in February with Marcus Stofer. First on the agenda was a 900m-high line visible on the left side of the valley above their base in the village of Gudvanden. The most prominent feature is an eight-pitch cascade high on the face. In January 2006 it was reached via a long diagonal ascent from the left by Kjetil Grimseth and Marius Olsen, who then climbed it at WI 6 to give Kjerrskredkvelven (the lower diagonal had been climbed many years ago by persons unknown).

Jasper and Stofer climbed a continuous line of ice cutting through the ramp and finishing direct up a thinner formation left of the Norwegian route. Into the Wild gave 1,300m of climbing at WI 6 X and may be the longest, climbed, pure icefall in the World.

The pair then shifted south to Eidfjord, south of Ulvik and due east of Bergen, near the head of the fjord. Here, the valley of Mabodalen is home to a number of fine ice climbs, perhaps the most famous being the Voringsfossen. This is the most famous tourist waterfall in Norway. It falls from Europe's largest mountain plateau, the Hardangervidda, and drops straight into the canyon of Mabodalen. When properly frozen, as it was this year, it is a classic 182m, WI 6.

Norwegians most probably made the first ice climbs in the Upper Mabodalen in 1999. Before reaching Voringsfossen and on the north side of the valley there is a superb ice-streaked wall. Canadians Chris Alstrin, Mathieu Audibert, Audrey Gariepy, Guy Lacelle and Alex Lavigne climbed a number of fine WI 6 routes in 2008, although Norwegians had previously climbed some of these. In this same area Jasper and Stofer put up the fantastic Landplage, a 240m mixed and ice route with free hanging icicles graded WI 7-. Some bolts were placed and the route eventually redpointed. Two years ago Andreas Klarlstrom and Rein Leidal climbed the nearby thinly-formed Belzebub (WI 6) and reported looking at the line of Landplage but not daring to try it.

Returning to Gudvangen, Jasper and Stofer spent two days working an 800m line on the left side of the valley close to the Nasen road. The mixed pitches and glassy ice proved harder than expected and at two-thirds height they ran out of time and had to return home.

Haunted by the project, which he would later describe as the finest, long icefall he'd ever climbed, Jasper quickly persuaded Roger Schaeli, booked the next flight back to Norway, and arrived in Gudvangen to find much warmer temperatures - just right for the climb. Highly motivated, the two made the redpoint ascent in one long day: Fosslimonster (1,000m of climbing: WI 6+ and M8+). The following day it began to melt.

The routes have not been without controversy. Norwegian climbers have an enviable reputation for keeping climbing and first ascents in their homeland very much low key, and in common with the general UK climbing community, are critical of poor ethical practice. Norway is one of the last frontiers for adventure and the drilling by Jasper has not gone unnoticed. Expect a statement shortly.

Thanks to Bjorn-Eivind Artun, Robert Jasper and Marius Olsen for help in preparing this report

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