Russians climb Greenland Shark's Tooth

Posted by Lindsay Griffin on 25/05/2011
The Shark's Tooth, seen from the north. Alexander Ruchkin

Mikhail Mikhaylov and Alexander Ruchkin have made the first ascent of the main summit of the Shark's Teeth, spectacular granite spires on Greenland's East Coast.

The Shark's Teeth are located in the south east corner of Renland, part of the Greenland mainland immediately north of the large island of Milne Land. These locations lie within Scoresby Sund, the longest and one of the deepest fjord systems in the World, and are accessed via the commercial airport at Constable Pynt (Nerlerit Inaat).

In 2008 British climbers Crispin Chatterton, Rob Grant and Nat Spring, aided by a grant from the Mount Everest Foundation, explored side glaciers rising south from the main Edward Bailey Glacier and noted a number of big wall objectives. Their photograph of one of these, the main Shark's Tooth, appeared the following year in the American Alpine Journal

Acting on that information, Dutch climbers Martin Fickweiler and Gerke Hoekstra visited south east Renland in 2009 but were unable to gain access to the Shark's Teeth Glacier due to impassible rivers. Instead, they went further north and climbed long alpine rock routes.

Both these teams came during the normal summer season, but Mikhaylov and Ruchkin opted to arrive in April, reaching base camp, 12km from the Teeth, by skidoo.

By the beginning of May they had transported their gear to the base of the wall on ski, experiencing frequent heavy snowfalls.

A week later they had reached the 1,555m summit of the main Shark's Tooth, having spent four days climbing the North West Ridge in alpine-style.

Starting at the base of the wall, at an altitude of 640m, they set off with bivouac gear (no portaledge), climbing a steep, 300m snow gully to camp on the crest of the arête.

They made two bivouacs on the steep rock crest above, and then went lightweight to the summit, completing the 915m ascent (1,200m of climbing) at 6c and A2.

The obvious target for future parties is the huge north face.

The two climbers from St Petersburg are certainly no new comers to high standard alpine rock walls. Ruchkin, in particular, has an impressive CV, which includes the North Face of Jannu. Last year their alpine-style ascent of a new rock route on an unclimbed peak in Sichuan received a Piolet d'Or nomination.

On the photograph the St Petersburg route follows the right arête
 



« Back

Post a comment Print this article

This article has been read 2250 times

TAGS

Click on the tags to explore more

RELATED ARTICLES

Early season Greenland success for British team
0
Early season Greenland success for British team

A primarily British expedition comprising Greenland veterans Geoff Bonney and Jim and Sandy Gregson, together with Roger Gott, Richard Toon, and Ingrid Baber, a German currently living in Scotland, has made a raft of first ascents amongst the snowy mountains of North Liverpool Land.
Read more »

Leo Houlding and team succeed on Mirror Wall in Greenland
0
Leo Houlding and team succeed on Mirror Wall in Greenland

Despite challenging conditions including illness, crevasse falls, storms and plundering polar bears, Leo Houlding and a small team of Brits have climbed a new line on an epic 1,200m granite big wall in Arctic Greenland. Leo described Mirror Wall as: "A beautiful tombstone of glass-smooth granite, taller than El Capitan’s Dawn Wall and set in this pristine but harsh Arctic wilderness."
Read more »

Griffith and Houseman climb Link Sar West in the Karakoram
0
Griffith and Houseman climb Link Sar West in the Karakoram

Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman have recently returned from Pakistan, having made the first ascent of Link Sar West, a subsidiary top of Link Sar with an altitude of just under 7,000m.
Read more »

Post a Comment
Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
1
1) Anonymous User
25/06/2011
Inspiring

RELATED ARTICLES

Early season Greenland success for British team
0

A primarily British expedition comprising Greenland veterans Geoff Bonney and Jim and Sandy Gregson, together with Roger Gott, Richard Toon, and Ingrid Baber, a German currently living in Scotland, has made a raft of first ascents amongst the snowy mountains of North Liverpool Land.
Read more »

Leo Houlding and team succeed on Mirror Wall in Greenland
0

Despite challenging conditions including illness, crevasse falls, storms and plundering polar bears, Leo Houlding and a small team of Brits have climbed a new line on an epic 1,200m granite big wall in Arctic Greenland. Leo described Mirror Wall as: "A beautiful tombstone of glass-smooth granite, taller than El Capitan’s Dawn Wall and set in this pristine but harsh Arctic wilderness."
Read more »

Griffith and Houseman climb Link Sar West in the Karakoram
0

Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman have recently returned from Pakistan, having made the first ascent of Link Sar West, a subsidiary top of Link Sar with an altitude of just under 7,000m.
Read more »

BMC MEMBERSHIP
Join 80,000 BMC members and support British climbing, walking and mountaineering. Membership only £15.72.
Read more »
BMC SHOP
Great range of guidebooks, DVDs, books, calendars and maps.
All with discounts for members.
Read more »
TRAVEL INSURANCE
Get covered with BMC Insurance. Our five policies take you from the beach to Everest.
Read more »