A large loose block has been identified at the belay on the classic route ‘Central Groove’ at the Dewerstone on the southern edge of Dartmoor, Devon.

The block in question is held in place by a very small amount of rock and serious concerns have been raised about the risk of the block falling onto several routes below, as well as the often busy gearing up area at the base of the crag. The National Trust as landowners have decided that action needs to be taken to reduce the risk of this happening and advice from a geotechnical consultant was sought. Two options were possible, either removing (trundling) the block or stabilising the block onto the crag with a metal pin. Upon examining the block, the consultant’s advice was that removing the block may cause further instabilities along with the risk of damage to the routes below, so pinning was the recommended course of action.

The block was discussed at the BMC’s latest South West Area meeting (on 30th January in Bristol) with a unanimous vote in favour of pinning the block, which was subsequently fed back to the National Trust. The BMC supports the National Trust in this work - although there is a well established traditional ethic at the Dewerstone with no drilled equipment allowed, it was felt in this individual case an exception could be made and pinning the block was an acceptable solution to an unusual problem.

The pinning is due to take place on Friday 25th February and some areas of the crag will have restricted access for safety reasons whilst work is carried out. A single stainless steel bolt will be drilled through the block and secured into the crag behind it, with a warning to climbers not to use it as an anchor point.
 

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