Northumberland’s answer to Tremadog to be returned to its former glory

Posted by Rob Dyer on 09/08/2012
The stunning Crag Lough. Credit: Mark Savage
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A crag restoration event is being planned for one of Northumberland’s finest low to mid-grade crags over the weekend of the 15 and 16 September.

Crag Lough, which sits immediately below Hadrian’s Wall, has become somewhat overgrown in the past few years as attention has shifted from the Whin Sill Dolerite crags to the in vogue sandstone venues. These dolerite crags have a great deal to offer though – having never visited before I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of both rock and lines on a recent site visit to the crag.

The crag is owned by the National Trust who have been consulted about the cleanup and are supportive of any efforts to restore the crag. The majority of the work needed involves cleaning grass and small saplings/shrubs out of cracks and from mid-route ledges. The work has been delayed until later in the season to avoid disturbance of nesting birds and the summer holiday period when many climbers tend to be away on trips.

Mark Anstiss, BMC North East member and organiser of the weekend takes up the story:

The intention is clean routes on the Saturday and enjoy the fruits of our labour on the Sunday with a BBQ at Haltwhistle campsite on the Saturday evening.  Beers in the Twice Brewed Inn are optional but recommended! There is campsite and pub nearby. The campsite has about 60 pitches and BBQ facilities and the proprietor has said he would be happy to accommodate us on the Saturday evening. 

The crag is an extensive North facing Whin Sill Dolerite escarpment offering over 100 recorded routes the majority of which are in the perennially popular HS to HVS range.  Although North facing the rock is generally clean, extremely hard wearing and does not tend to polish.  The crag was one of the earliest to be developed in Northumberland and the classics at this fine crag bear comparison with the best outcrop routes anywhere.  However over the last few years the crag has fallen out of fashion, with many climbers tending to focus on sandstone outcrops further North in The County.  The relative neglect of the Whin Sill crags has resulted in increased vegetation on all but the very most popular routes resulting in the familiar cycle of less attention and further encroachment of vegetation.

Unfortunately the erosion at Northumberland sandstone venues is a serious problem, especially on routes in the popular middle grades and it has been argued that that a clean up of Crag Lough may result in more mid-grade climbers making more use of this venue, thus taking some pressure of the sandstone, as well as improving the climbing there for it's own sake.

  
So come along and get involved – everyone is welcome whether you’re a local or just up for the weekend. The BMC is funding the BBQ and the Saturday evening promises to be a fun a sociable event in it’s own right, even before you consider the fantastic routes on offer at the crag. Further details to follow, but pencil the 15th/16th September into your diary and help restore this forgotten gem of the North East.



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Anonymous User
09/08/2012
There is a preliminary meeting for anyone interested in helping out TONIGHT (9th August) at 8:00 pm at the Newcastle Climbing centre (St. Marks Church, Byker).

Cheers

Mark Anstiss
Anonymous User
09/08/2012
Psst! Don't tell anyone but the best middle grade routes in the county are on Crag Lough & Peel Crag.
Anonymous User
10/08/2012
Crag Lough is being neglected for good reasons. People do generally stop short of Crag Lough. Most will walk to Peel. We don't have many scorchingly hot summers that people need to find shades on a north facing crag in the northern part of the country. When the sun is out, a crag with sunny aspects is always more popular unless you're Andy Kirkpatrick! Let's face it. Most Brits are sun seekers, even for climbers. How many "rock and sun" holiday abroad adverts have you seen in the back of Summit, Climber, Climb? Why is Kalymnos so popular?
Good stuff you guys are doing but I doubt it'll generate a high amount of interest on the crag in the coming winter months. If masses of snow returns, then some gullies may get done as in the past!
Anonymous User
10/08/2012
Another reason for the reduction in popularity might be the fact it costs £3 a day tp park. When it was more popular it was free. I was there today and have never seen it so overgrown. However it still doesn't impact the routes much, and there are still many high quality routes there.

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