The North Wales Bolt Fund held a bolting workshop on Wed 18th July at Bus Stop Quarry. Despite the best sunny weather for over a week, more than 20 local climbers attended (although most managed to sneak a couple of routes in before and after!). Dan Middleton, BMC Technical Officer, was on hand to record the action, and also to hand over the first batch of free BMC bolts from the Better Bolts Campaign.
Participants learnt how to use the petrol and battery drills, and how to place expansion bolts. Pull out tests of the expansion bolts used on the slate gave good results considering the nature of the rock. All except one (which managed to find a dubious bit of rock) held at least 9 kN.
Some of the issues affecting resin bolts were covered, and some of the resin systems were looked at. Some very encouraging pullout tests were made on some DMM Eco-bolts and Fixe eyebolts. Using a range of different epoxy acrylate resin systems, all held in excess of 15kN.
Finally, lower off fittings for Upper Pen Trwyn were demonstrated. Consisting of retrofitted stainless steel rings and maillon rapides, these are intended to extend the lifetime of the bolts. Correctly threading the rings will prevent wear on the bolts themselves, and also reduce the problem of rotation of the bolt eye.
See how to thread these lower offs correctly here
, and whatever you do, please don’t steal them!
Want to find out more about bolt funds? Find out here.
What is the BMC Better Bolts Campaign? Find out here.
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