In some parts of the country, new routing, cleaning and developing completely new crags can be a sensitive issue with landowners. The following guidelines was developed by climbers in the South West but they apply equally throughout the country.

Information gathering
Find out as much as possible about the crag. Why has it not been developed before? Is there a known access problem? Is the area used by the landowner or other bodies? Would climbing inconvenience local residents (e.g. is parking limited)? The local BMC Access Rep may be able to help.

Nature conservation
Is the crag important for nature conservation reasons. Has it any formal designations (e.g. SSSI) or is it a nature reserve - if so, what has it been designated for and would climbing be harmful.

Asking permission
Asking formal permission to climb can be a delicate issue which may be best done by your local Access Rep. Gradual development of potentially sensitive crags may well have less impact than production line new routing.

Local ethics
Consider the use of fixed gear very carefully, taking into account local ethics and the potential reaction of the landowner to bolts or brightly coloured tat. Check the local fixed equipment policy.

Gardening
Minimise damage to cliff plants and trees by not going over the top with gardening efforts. Some woodland, plants and lichens are protected by law and damage may result in prosecution. Leave as few traces of your climbing as possible (i.e. rock scars from cleaning, fixed equipment, chalk and litter).

Promotion and publicity
Consider any publicity very carefully. Can the crag sustain the levels of interest that may be generated? Could the access situation be threatened?

Contact your local BMC local Access Rep if you have any doubts about the implications of new routes you're planning.

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