5th in IFSC Lead finals for Molly Thompson-Smith

Posted by Peter Burnside on 09/10/2017
Molly Thompson-Smith cruising qualifications. Photo: IFSC / Eddie Fowke
View 1 of 2

The IFSC World Cup season continued last weekend in Wujiang, China, where Molly Thompson-Smith was the only GB Climbing Team athlete to make the journey and forgo participating in the British Lead Climbing Championships. Despite flying solo and nearly losing her checked baggage, Molly performed brilliantly to make finals and take 5th place: her highest ever finish in an IFSC World Cup.

Representing the GB Climbing Team in China, Molly Thompson-Smith made the journey alone to test herself against the most elite climbers from around the world at the IFSC Lead World Cup in Wujiang. This season, Molly has been on top-form having made semi-finals in Edinburgh and Briançon, and coming third in Arco in the Duel event, and making the IFSC Lead World Cup final there also – the first British climber to do so since Lucy Creamer in 2004.

Molly’s competition nearly fell at the first hurdle in China, though, as her checked baggage containing her climbing shoes and team uniform failed to appear from the depths of the plane’s hold. Fortunately, she was reunited with her bag the next morning, and Molly could then forget the worrying to focus on preparing for the event ahead.

Report: Wujiang IFSC Lead World Cup final

With a top of the first route – only one of six to do so, including some of the other finalists Janja Garnbret, Jain Kim, Akiyo Noguchi, Ashima Shiraishi, and Anak Verhoeven – and falling just shy of the finish in the second route, Molly sailed through qualifications before making short work of the semi-final also, climbing superbly to qualify for the final in 6th place. 

Up against the world's very best female Lead clmbers, Molly was the third athlete to compete in the final of the IFSC Lead World Cup in Wujiang, following on from Julia Chanourdie of France and Jessica Pilz of Austria. Molly remained calm and composed, which was reflected in her cool and calculated climbing through the lower section, but came off just after a decent rest section following a series of powerful moves.

Unable to reach Julia's initial high point, which was enough to earn her the bronze medal, Molly slipped down the rankings as the other competitors came out, but remained ahead of superstars Ashima Shiraishi of USA and Anak Verhoeven of Belgium to finish in an amazing fifth place. Janja Garnbret of Slovenia maintained her incredible record to win the gold medal, while Jain Kim of Korea was just unable to match Janja to take silver. 

Over in the men's tournament, a number of usual faces in IFSC Boulder World Cups – such as season champion Jongwon Chon of Korea and Tomoa Narasaki of Japan – set significant high points, but none of them could best Stefano Ghisolfi of Italy, who took the gold medal again in China, his third of the season, while the current overall leader Romain Desgranges placed fifth.

WATCH: Highlights of the IFSC Lead World Cup Final

Results

Women:

1st: Janja Garnbret (SLO)
2nd: Jain Kim (KOR)
3rd: Julia Chanourdie (FRA)
4th: Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
5th: Molly Thompson-Smith (GBR)
6th: Ashima Shiraishi (USA)
7th: Jessica Pilz (AUT)
8th: Anak Verhoeven (BEL)

Men:

1st: Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA)
2nd: Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
3rd: Hanwool Kim (KOR)
4th: Domen Skofic (SLO)
5th: Romain Desgranges (FRA)
6th: Jongwon Chon (KOR)
7th: Yoshiyuki Ogata (JPN)
8th: Keiichiro Korenaga (JPN)


UPDATE on Coronavirus and BMC events

GB Climbing
 is supported by the BMC, Mountaineering Scotland and Secur-it
.

The GB Paraclimbing Team is supported by Oakwood Climbing Centre and Quay Climbing Centre. The GB Ice Climbing Team is supported by Montane. Many UK walls also support the GB Climbing through free or subsidised entry.

🧗‍♀️ FOLLOW GB_Climbing's Instagram for exclusive photos and results

🐦SCROLL live GB Climbing Twitter updates with GB_Climbing

👍 LIKE GB Climbing Facebook for more news and pics

📺 WATCH our YouTube GB Climbing playlist

👀 VISIT the GB Climbing site

HIGHLIGHTS: 2019 La Sportiva British Bouldering Championships


« Back

Post a comment Print this article

This article has been read 1384 times

TAGS

Click on the tags to explore more

RELATED ARTICLES

Update: on CCPG work
0
Update: on CCPG work

Updates are available here on GB Climbing, the newly formed internal department of the BMC designated with looking after and giving future direction to all things connected with Competition Climbing.
Read more »

Competition Climbing Performance Group gets underway
0
Competition Climbing Performance Group gets underway

While climbing competitions have been postponed for the majority of the year due to Covid-19, the BMC Competitions Climbing Performance Group (CCPG) will be making good use of the forced downtime to develop and direct its work programme in the sector.
Read more »

Climbing’s debut at Tokyo 2020 postponed
0
Climbing’s debut at Tokyo 2020 postponed

Climbing’s time at the ‘greatest show on earth’ will, sadly, have to wait after the British Olympic Association (BOA), British Paralympic Association (BPA) and UK Sport released a statement today that welcomed the news of the postponement of the Tokyo 2020 Olympic and Paralympic Games.
Read more »

Post a Comment

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
0

There are currently no comments, why not add your own?

RELATED ARTICLES

Update: on CCPG work
0

Updates are available here on GB Climbing, the newly formed internal department of the BMC designated with looking after and giving future direction to all things connected with Competition Climbing.
Read more »

Competition Climbing Performance Group gets underway
0

While climbing competitions have been postponed for the majority of the year due to Covid-19, the BMC Competitions Climbing Performance Group (CCPG) will be making good use of the forced downtime to develop and direct its work programme in the sector.
Read more »

Climbing’s debut at Tokyo 2020 postponed
0

Climbing’s time at the ‘greatest show on earth’ will, sadly, have to wait after the British Olympic Association (BOA), British Paralympic Association (BPA) and UK Sport released a statement today that welcomed the news of the postponement of the Tokyo 2020 Olympic and Paralympic Games.
Read more »

BMC MEMBERSHIP
Join 82,000 BMC members and support British climbing, walking and mountaineering. Membership only £16.97.
Read more »
BMC SHOP
Great range of guidebooks, DVDs, books, calendars and maps.
All with discounts for members.
Read more »
TRAVEL INSURANCE
Get covered with BMC Insurance. Our five policies take you from the beach to Everest.
Read more »