Update Feb 2017
Access has been suspended until further noctice - no access for climbing.
Due to the national outbreak of Avian Flu the landowners and the managers of the pheasant pens and rearing sheds that lie below the crag have advised that all access to the crag and the surrounding land has been suspended until further notice. Please respect the landowners wishes and as soon as the outbreak is over, the normal access agreeements will be resumed.
This crag is also subject to a seasonal restriction to protect the interests of the landowner and leaseholder, in particular the rearing of birds (pheasants) at the base of the crag. Please adhere to this restriction and do not climb here between September29th and February 1st inclusive.
In addition June 22nd to Sept 28th, climbing restricted to 1 hour after sunrise, and all climbers to have vacated the crag 90 mins before sunset.
Climbing here is only allowed with the kind permission of the landowner and the shooting syndicate who lease the site as a location for rearing and shooting game birds. Access should only be as described in the current version of the A55 Sports -Climbs guidebook, unless indicated by on site signs. Strictly no dogs allowed at any time.
The crag is on private land and there is not right of access but the farmer at nearby Ty Newydd farm (on the left of the A5151 towards Trelawnyd), Mr Jones, has been most amenable and has very kindly agreed to permit climbing so long as the access stipulation, car parking and approach designated is used.
1. No access to the crag from 29th September to 1st February inclusive (shooting days).
2. Follow the agreed approach route - from the 'Dyserth to Prestatyn walkway' car park, follow the walkway towards Prestatyn to a bridge. Go right before the bridge, up some steps then make your way through two kissing gates, across a footbridge to a track - turn left and follow to a fence. Turn right and follow this fence to another fence surrounding a cultivated area, til you get to a gate - go through this into a small wooded valley and the crag should appear magnificiently on your left.
3. No dogs at any time and no exceptions.