Craig Ty Newydd

Northern Limestone (Inland)

A very sheltered limestone cliff, containing a small collection of excellent sports climbs, but with very specific access instructions.

Due to the base of the cliff being used for pheasant rearing, sporadic outbreaks of Avain Flu in the UK can affect access to this crag - please note the on-site signs for most current information. 

February 2022 onwards until further notice: No pheasant shooting is taking place and access for climbing is currently permitted, but all users must text the landowner beforehand. This could change as the year goes on. 

Thanks all - your co-operation will help us to maintain future access.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 16
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 2010
Grid Reference: SJ068797


Usual Access information valid from February 2022

The landowner requires that all climbers wanting to visist, to send a text to him, to request permission before going climbing at this venue. This is because there could be authorised target shooting or vermin control operations taking place and the landowner does not want anyone getting injured. Failure to inform the land owner will lead to access being withdrawn. The number to text is 07717257796. to Mr L Jones. 

This crag is now subject to a seasonal restriction to protect the interests of the landowner and leaseholder , in particular the rearing of birds (pheasants) at the base of the crag. Please adhere to this restriction and do not climb here between September 1st and February 1st inclusive.

In addition June 22nd to Sept 1st, climbing is normally restricted to 1 hour after sunrise, and all climbers to have vacated the crag 90 mins before sunset.

Climbing here is only allowed with the kind permission of the landowner  and the shooting syndicate who lease the site as a location for rearing and shooting game birds. Access should only be as described in the most current versions of the North Wales Limestone and A55 Climbing guidebooks , unless indicated by on site signs. Strictly no dogs allowed at any time.

The crag is on private land and there is not right of access but the farmer at nearby Ty Newydd farm (on the left of the A5151 towards Trelawnyd), Mr Jones, has been most amenable and has very kindly agreed to permit climbing so long as the access stipulation, car parking and approach designated is used.

1. No access to the crag from 29th September to 1st February inclusive (shooting days).

2. Follow the agreed approach route - from the 'Dyserth to Prestatyn walkway' car park, follow the walkway towards Prestatyn to a bridge. Go right before the bridge, up some steps then make your way through two kissing gates, across a footbridge to a track - turn left and follow to a fence. Turn right and follow this fence to another fence surrounding a cultivated area, til you get to a gate - go through this into a small wooded valley and the crag should appear magnificiently on your left.

3. No dogs at any time and no exceptions.

Restrictions apply from 1 September - 1 February.

Reason: Other

CRoW Information

Not on CROW land.

Group Advice

Not suitable for large groups - due to senistive access it suggested that if this crag is busy that people may want to consider visiting at another time.

Area information

This area includes Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment, Castle Inn, Penmaenhead as well as many other sports crags along the A55 corridor. Many of the crags, including Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment and Castle Inn all lie within land designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest, and vegetation removal, modification of rock faces, removal of rocks, etc. should be avoided.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

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Anonymous User
A55 guide for this crag seems out of date. Says that from 1st of October to 31st of January climbing is only prohibited on Fridays and Saturdays.