Craig Ty Newydd

Northern Limestone (Inland)

A very sheltered limestone cliff, containing a small collection of excellent sports climbs, but with very specific access instructions.

Due to the base of the cliff being used for pheasant rearing, sporadic outbreaks of Avian Flu in the UK can affect access to this crag - please note the on-site signs for most current information. 

June 22nd 2024 until February 1st 2025 : Pheasant rearing and shooting will place and access for climbing in that period is currently not permitted. Outside of this time, all users must text the landowner beforehand. This situation could change as the year goes on. 

Thanks all - your co-operation will help us to maintain future access.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 16
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 2010
Grid Reference: SJ 06771 79792


Usual Access information valid from February 2024

The landowner requires that all climbers request permission via text message before climbing at this venue. This is because there could be authorised target shooting or vermin control operations taking place and the landowner does not want anyone getting injured. Failure to inform the land owner will lead to access being withdrawn. 

Please text the landowner, Mr L Jones, on 07717 257796 to ask for permission. 

This crag is subject to a seasonal restriction to protect the interests of the landowner and leaseholder, in particular the rearing of birds (pheasants) at the base of the crag. Please adhere to this restriction and do not climb here between June 22nd and February 1st inclusive. NB: These dates are subject to change - please always check Social Media and the RAD.

Climbing here is only allowed with the kind permission of the landowner  and the shooting syndicate who lease the site as a location for rearing and shooting game birds. Access should only be as described in the most current versions of the North Wales Limestone and A55 Climbing guidebooks , unless indicated by on site signs. Strictly no dogs allowed at any time.

The crag is on private land and there is not right of access but the farmer at nearby Ty Newydd farm (on the left of the A5151 towards Trelawnyd), Mr Jones, has been most amenable and has very kindly agreed to permit climbing so long as the access stipulation, car parking and approach designated is used.

Follow the agreed approach route - from the 'Dyserth to Prestatyn walkway' car park, follow the walkway towards Prestatyn to a bridge. Go right before the bridge, up some steps then make your way through two kissing gates and across a footbridge to a track - turn left and follow to a fence. Turn right and follow this fence to another fence surrounding a cultivated area Follow this fence downhill to a gate - go through and follow the fence to another gate. This leads into a small wooded valley and the crag should appear magnificently on your left. Please shut all gates unless obviously tied open by the farmer.

Restrictions apply from 22 June - 1 February.

Reason: Other

Due to pheasant rearing at the base of the crag. 

Parking and Approach

Please note: cattle and sheep may sometimes be grazing on the approach route. In periods of wet weather the approach can be very muddy.

CRoW Information

Not on CROW land.

Group Advice

Not suitable for groups or large numbers of climbers - due to sensitive access it is suggested that if the crag is busy people may want to consider visiting at another time.

Area information

This area includes Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment, Castle Inn, Penmaenhead as well as many other sports crags along the A55 corridor. Many of the crags, including Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment and Castle Inn all lie within land designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest, and vegetation removal, modification of rock faces, removal of rocks, etc. should be avoided.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

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Anonymous User
A55 guide for this crag seems out of date. Says that from 1st of October to 31st of January climbing is only prohibited on Fridays and Saturdays.