Dinas Rock

South East Wales

Probably the best inland cliff in South Wales, with some excellent sports climbs and some older but very worthwhile traditional routes.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Forestry Commission No. of Routes: 129
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1970
Grid Reference: SN 91343 07961

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.

While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy. 

CRoW Information

Part of NRWs land is dedicated as open access.

Group Advice

Groups are advised to contact the NRW before using the site, and a formal concordat for the use of the gorge and the rocks has been agreed between NRW and outdoor centres. Contacting the South Wales Outdoor Activity Providers Group (SWOAPG), before group use is also possible. 

Area information

A wide variety of crags, including adventurous sea cliffs at Ogmore, modern sports routes on inland limestone and sandstone cliffs, and winter climbing venues in the Brecon Beacons. To Donate to the South Wales Bolt Fund https://www.southwalesboltfund.co.uk/swbf/support/ Up to date route info can found on the South Wales Climbing Wiki:-https://swcw.org.uk/

Weather Information

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Forestry Commission in Wales is now part of Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and does not have a separate identity as far as I am aware.
Gower and SE Wales (published SWMC) and South Wales Sport Climbs (Rockfax) both reference these crags.
Gwyn Evans