The landowners have been granted a 5 year ban on dogs due to ground nesting birds. The crag is typical moors hard sandstone with a band of more unstable rock / peat above. This provides challenging top outs and limited anchors although there is at least one belay stake of unknown security (Oct 2016). There are a few good steep slabs and crack lines which are considered by locals to be undergraded. There is very little for the lower grade climber.
Parking and Approach
Ample parking on right before Bankfoot Farm. Take the stone road through the farm and up the hillside. At a gate below the moor top the crag will be seen directly above. Continue on the forest road until it bears right at a small rock outcrop with an impressive cairn (Oct 2016). A feint path leads right to the crag.
Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.
Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.