As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where
you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.
The largest crag in the North York Moors. Characterised by mainly steep, commiting lines on predominantly friable rock with areas of suspect stability. It is not recommended for novices or those with insufficient experience to assess the risks. For parties with such experience and an adventurous spirit, the venue offers some excellent lines and a fantastic outlook over Gormire Lake and the Vale of York.
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Care should be exercised with holds and gear placements due to the friable nature of the rock. The unlikely looking VDiff of Gauche and the stupendous The Night Watch VS 4b make good introductions to the crag on reasonably stable rock.
Parking and Approach
There is paid for parking by the National Park Visitor Centre at 515830. Be aware that penalty notices have been issued for parking on neraby verges. Follow the road to the top of Sutton Bank and pick up the Cleveland Way on the right and take this NW for just under 1km where the path turns sharply right and identified by a bench. To the right of the bench will be found a gully which steepens towards its base. It is customary to take a spare rope and set up an abseil from a convenient tree to protect the descent.
Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.
Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.
Not suitable for groups.
Guidebook info currently being updated
There are no files associated with this crag