Gogarth - Castell Helen

Gogarth Area

Gogarth's most amenable and accessible sea cliff but not to be underestimated.  

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Quartzite
Importance: International CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: RSPB No. of Routes: 30
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1965
Grid Reference: SH206819

Approach by abseil - but take care your ropes don't get trapped by the undertow at the base of the crag. 

Although there are no restrictions due to nesting birds, guilemots do occasionally nest on the breaks below the halfway ledge, close to the first pitches of Pel and North West Passage. If this is the case try to climb to one side of the nests and avoid going directly past it.  These few birds that do nest here seem to be very tolerant of climbers as long as we climb past quickly...!

Area information

Gogarth's seacliffs contain some of the most important breeding seabird colonies in Europe. It is important climbers continue contributing towards their protection by observing the negotiated nesting restrictions which apply to a number of cliffs. Most of the area is managed by the RSPB as an internationally important bird reserve and the arrangements here are often cited as best exemplars of how climbing and conservation can co-exist. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. The range of cliffs include Gogarth Bay, South Stack, The Range as well as other outlying crags along the Anglesey coast.

Weather Information

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