Yeadon Crag is the southernmost end of the crag series which runs south from Sypeland and is unquestionably one of the most significant Wild Bouldering developments of recent years in Yorkshire. The rock is of the same breed as that found at Sypeland, so bring a suitable brush to get the most out of your day. The center-piece is the huge Prune Boulder which has only given away two problems to date – an extra 10 points will be awarded for the first ascent of the overhanging prow! The other boulders are shorter but by no means more forgiving and climbs here are generally a fight, if not an all out brawl at their respective grades! Landings are impeccable and the lines are strong, especially those which haven’t been climbed yet… Situated right on the lip of the moor above the village of Wath the outlook is spectacular to say the least—to watch the sun go down on a clear summer’s evening is a privilege.
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A Grouse more so check access restrictions. The crag and approach is all open access. However the farmer and gamekeeper have expressed concerns about ground nesting birds. Keep to paths where possible and leave dogs at home.
Parking and Approach
In Pateley Bridge, take King Street (the first left after the bridge if coming from Greenhow Hill) and follow it as it narrows past the church. Continue towards the village of Wath. Where the road forks (red letterbox at the fork) go right and climb steeply up to a T junction. Turn right and after 500m park at a gate (don’t block it!) opposite a quarry. Walk through the gate an head along a track, forking right after a short while. Continue on this, past a trig point on the left. Shortly after this, follow the wall as it turns away from the track. Before reaching the cross-roads of two walls, pass through Yorkshire’s Best Kept Grouse Butt 2015 and continue North to the cross-roads. Cross the wall carefully and bear down diagonally to the crag.
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