Tegness Quarries

Eastern Gritstone

Two minor quarries in fine position overlooking the Derwent Valley. The left-hand quarry is unstable in places, but its neighbour offers a few short (9m) routes up good, clean rock and the added fun of a detached pinnacle! Best routes are The Original Route (D) and Fingers (VS 4c). Can be tricky to find, especially in the Summer, when the quarries are all but invisible for the trees.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Peak District Rock Type: Gritstone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 60
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SK254780

Parking and Approach

From the National Trust car park (Haywood) at SK 255777, just below The Grouse Inn on the B6504, follow the path beside a stone wall north to an electricity pole. Just past this is a path of the left which contours around the hillside to reach the quarry in a couple of minutes. If you reach the end of the stone wall, or start going downhill through the woods, you've gone the wrong way!

CRoW Information

Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.

Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.

Area information

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2
Anonymous User
13/06/2020
There are nesting birds of prey, Sparrow Hawks I think, in Four Cracks No.3 . Given the small size of the quarry and it's pinnacle it's probably best to stay away.
Anonymous User
13/06/2020
The single stake which serves the upper bay of the North Quarry (7. The Niche - 14. Good Evening) is very loose. The next nearest anchors are trees a long way back (like an extra rope's length)