St. Govan's East

Pembroke South

Tucked away at the end of the most popular crag in Pembroke is a great crag with routes which see a fraction of the traffic. This is another one of those typical Pembroke crags that has a classic route - First Blood (E2) - which attracts people for their first visit but which tends to get forgotten a bit after that. Unlike some of the one-hit-wonder crags, St Govan's East actually has a lot more to offer. Routes like Calisto (E1), Hidden Secrets (E2), Round the Horn (E2), Forbidden Fruits (E3), Howling Gale (E3) and the magnificent Brave New World (E4) make a return visit well worth thinking about, especially if you are exasperated by crowds elsewhere.

2019 - please beware of an area of particularly loose rock at the top of 'Body Language'. Most of this has been removed but the top out requires care!

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Ministry of Defence No. of Routes: 104
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SR9754692736

Parking and Approach

Tidal at the ends, but non-tidal in between.

Area information

South Pembroke is one of the best sea cliff climbing areas in Britain featuring abseil approaches, amazing scenery, and a huge number of fantastic routes - it is also extremely important for wildlife, especially the nesting bird colonies. There are many special access arrangements and seasonal climbing restrictions. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. Pembrokeshire National Park produce a very useful leaflet with all the current restrictions https://www.pembrokeshirecoast.wales/things-to-do/outdoor-activities/climbing/ NB- Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually. Please check the notice boards in Stack Rocks, Broad Haven South, Stackpole Quay or St Govan’s car parks. The PCNPA also produce an excellent annual information leaflet illustrating the restricted areas on a clear map -available at the car parks and Mrs Westons cafe in Bosherston Range East This area is an Army firing range, although they do not use exploding ammunition. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on alternate Mon/Wed and Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/castlemartin-firing-notice--2 Range West 2022 Arrangements There is no access to Range West unless you have completed the annual safety briefing and handed your form into the guardhouse. You must report to the guardhouse before and after each climbing visit to Range West. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/pembroke-2021-review-and-range-west-2022 Since Easter 2013 year round access is allowed to Range West for briefed climbers, only on non-firing days only (normally most weekends and Bank holidays and most of August). This area is also used for live-firing but has a different arrangement for access to Range East, involving attending a PCNPA/MoD briefing and obtaining a permit to climb. Climbers must attend an annual briefing to obtain a valid permit. IMPORTANT - LIVE high explosive ammunition is fired on Range West and it is paramount that climbers (and all users) stay away from and DO NOT touch anything metal. For the same reasons belay stakes should not be placed. If you think belay stakes are required please contact the BMC who can arrange for stakes to be placed in a safe maner. Briefing days for 2022 are as follows :- Thursday 20th January 2022 – 18.00 Thursday 17th February 2022 – 18.00 Saturday 12th March 2022 – 09.00 Friday 15th April 2022 – 09.00 (Good Friday Bank Holiday) Saturday 28th May 2022 – 09.00 Thursday 16th June 2022 – 18.00 Saturday 16th July 2022 – 09.00

Weather Information

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Anonymous User
30/05/2021
Herring gull nesting at the bottom of Io, affecting Howling Gate to Dr Kiss Kiss