St David's Head cliff

Pembroke North

North Buttress: 20m routes from HVS to E3 6a, excellent rock, best on summer evenings with low tide. Weed is an worthwhile E1.St David's Head Zawn: Found just North of the last promontory of the headland.South Buttress: Sunny aspect, scramble approach (see access notes) short (15m) climbing, includes routes ideal for first time leaders. Gear is good and belay setup is plentiful. Base non tidal in calm seas.Stepped Roof Buttress (South Face Upper Tier): Just above and east of the South Face is a small buttress (10m) with a flat grassy base. Identifiable by a mid height stepped roof and a distinctive central full height serrated crack. Apparently used by some outdoor groups, but routes not recorded. The obvious central line goes at around VS, harder and easier options exist either side. Some bouldering exists between north and south crags.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Igneous
County Avon Access Status: Advice
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 30
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SM721277

Parking and Approach

Usually no nesting restrictions, but worth checking BMC RAD in case of variable restrictions in the area. Walk to end of headland, and scramble down to the narrow constriction near the very end. The south face is down the ramp to the left. Two obvious gullies intersect the face, the second would appear to be the drainage gully of the guide. The 'main face' is past this second steeper gully, a quartz band runs along its base. The north buttress is reached along wave cut platform to right/north, then descending a ramp seawards. Crag is on the corner before the small cove containing Craig y Crisial.Both crags are non-tidal apart from the extreme ends of the walls.
Area information

Less frequented than the south, there are some very popular cliffs along the southern bays of St David's, but also some very remote and atmospheric cliffs further north. Wildlife is abundant and the abscence of a formal restriction does not mean that protected birds are not present - so climbers are asked to be observant and avoid routes if the prescence of climbers is obviously causing disturbance to the birds. Many of the bays are also important seal breeding areas - if breeding seals are present then again please avoid.

Weather Information

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