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Pembroke South

Prominent grassy headland 400m east of Mewsford Point - popular area with quality routes in most grades.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
County Pembrokeshire Access Status: Restrictions/ Sensitive Access
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Ministry of Defence No. of Routes: 43
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1979
Grid Reference: SR947938

A very nice crag with a popular non-tidal upper tier and well-featured rock.

There is a large colony of Herring Gulls which are now on the "red list" of endangered species in the UK, on the mid-height ledge in Spring - early summer,  climbers are requested to avoid this section (see details below) as there is now an agreed seasonal restriction on this venue.

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 31 July.
Reason: Nesting Birds

There are likely to be a number of gulls and chicks during the nesting season on the half-way ledge of B-Team Buttress. At least 18 pairs of Herring gulls are known to nest here, making it one of the most important single sites for Herring gulls on this coastline. Please avoid during 1st March to 31st July.  Routes affected are: 'Cloud Nine, Hang Ten' to 'CDM' on lower tier (routes 6-11 in CC guide) and 'Snap, Popple and Crack' to 'The Jogger' on the upper tier (routes 16-28).  The gulls would make the climbing experience fairly unpleasant so better to choose another crag at this time of year.

(There are also agreed seasonal restrictions on the adjacent crag of Seaside Gully - see details under this crag)

Area information

South Pembroke is one of the best sea cliff climbing areas in Britain featuring abseil approaches, amazing scenery, and a huge number of fantastic routes - it is also extremely important for wildlife, especially the nesting bird colonies. There are many special access arrangements and seasonal climbing restrictions. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. NB- Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually. Please check the notice boards in Stack Rocks, Broad Haven South, Stackpole Quay or St Govan’s car parks. The PCNPA also produce an excellent annual information leaflet illustrating the restricted areas on a clear map -available at the car parks and Mrs Westons cafe in Bosherston Range East This area is an Army firing range, although they do not use exploding ammunition. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on alternate Mon/Wed and Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367. Range West Range West 2017 briefing dates will be a combination of both midweek evenings and weekends. . All briefings are held at Merrion Army Camp, Castlemartin SA71 5ER and last about 40 mins – park next to the gatehouse and ask for details. The briefing dates for 2017 are :- 23/2/17 Thursday evening 18:00 25/2/17 Saturday morning 10:00 23/3/17 Thursday evening 18:00 25/3/17 Saturday morning 10:00 14/4/17 Good Friday morning 10:00 27/4/17 Thursday evening 18:00 25/5/17 Thursday evening 18:00 27/05/17 Saturday (Spring Bank holiday weekend) 10:00 Since Easter 2013 access is allowed for briefed climbers all year round on non-firing days only. This area is also used for live-firing but has a different arrangement for access to Range East, involving attending a PCNPA/MoD briefing and obtaining a permit to climb. Climbers must attend an annual briefing to obtain a valid permit. IMPORTANT - LIVE high explosive ammunition is fired on Range West and it is paramount that climbers (and all users) stay away from and DO NOT touch anything metal. For the same reasons belay stakes should not be placed. If you think belay stakes are required please contact the BMC who can arrange for stakes to be placed in a safe maner.

Weather Information

Pembroke Rockfax 06

A James

Vertical Brain

1995

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