The rock has good incut holds and friction with a concentration of marvellous single and multi-pitch routes up to 80m long. Crag classics include Eroica (E2 6a/5b A1), Black Magic (E5 6a) and the amazing Darkinbad The Brightdayler (E5 6a).
||South West & Southern
||No. of Routes:
|Within National Park:
Parking and Approach
Protected from the tide by boulders. Close to the resort of Polzeath (offering campsites). Drive to Pentire Farm for NT parking. A track leads across fields to a junction at a stone stile with the coastal footpath. 100m E is a hump, the top of the Great Wall, with a faint path heading down to the E of the col.
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