If you've never been to Oldpits, you can rest assured that you outnumber those who have. This is disappointing as the crag is very good, despite its limited route count. For many years, no one knew about the crag save for a select band of local chuggers. The routes were talked about at The Crown or The Packhorse, but only once all outsiders had been ejected. It's long been seen as a local's birthright to be able to climb here in solitude and peace. Even with the advent of this guide, there won't be many takers for the routes here, but those who do come will feel rewarded.Routes: Mostly tough, steep and committing routes, in the mid extreme grades, with a smattering of easier routes. Pegs play their part at this crag, and they do get replaced from time to time. Feel free to do your bit and replace any dodgy looking bits of ironmongery.

There is a boulder in the middle of the quarry, which has a few easier problems and an excellant harder sit start.