As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where
you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop.
If you've never been to Oldpits, you can rest assured that you outnumber those who have. This is disappointing as the crag is very good, despite its limited route count. For many years, no one knew about the crag save for a select band of local chuggers. The routes were talked about at The Crown or The Packhorse, but only once all outsiders had been ejected. It's long been seen as a local's birthright to be able to climb here in solitude and peace. Even with the advent of this guide, there won't be many takers for the routes here, but those who do come will feel rewarded.Routes: Mostly tough, steep and committing routes, in the mid extreme grades, with a smattering of easier routes. Pegs play their part at this crag, and they d o get replaced from time to time. Feel free to do your bit and replace any dodgy looking bits of ironmongery. There is a boulder in the middle of the quarry, which has a few problems from 4b to 6a.
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Parking and Approach
Park in the Bowden Bridge car park then continue up the road on foot for 600m. The road splits here. Take the gated left fork and follow for 300m. At a vague rightwards turn, there is a wooden gate which leads up a steep cobbled path for 200m and a levelling off. Turn sharply back left and follow a track to the quarry after 300m. A 20 minute walk.
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
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