Saddle Head

Pembroke South

This headland gives fine climbing on good rock, mainly in the lower grades. The upper tier is non-tidal but Blue Sky requires low tide.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Ministry of Defence No. of Routes: 50
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1978
Grid Reference: SR959928

Please do not belay to the radar station fence or fence posts - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday. Note: May 2024, there is a bird nest in the crack above the cave of No Hands. Please avoid the routes ‘Follow the Chalk' and 'No Hands’ until end of July or chicks have fledged. Thanks.

Group Advice

Easy routes on Upper Tier with good belays above. Abseil descent or an exposed scramble that a lot of beginners might struggle with.

Area information

South Pembroke is one of the best sea cliff climbing areas in Britain featuring abseil approaches, amazing scenery, and a huge number of fantastic routes - it is also extremely important for wildlife, especially the nesting bird colonies. There are many special access arrangements and seasonal climbing restrictions. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. Pembrokeshire National Park produce a very useful leaflet with all the current restrictions- this is also available at the main car parks (St Govans, Stack Rocks, Borad Haven South adn Stackpole Quey as well as in Mrs Weston's Cafe in Bosherton (note Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually)). https://www.pembrokeshirecoast.wales/things-to-do/outdoor-activities/climbing/ Range East The area from St Govans East to Stack Rocks is part of a busy MoD firing range. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/castlemartin-firing-notice--2 West of Stack Rocks, the range is used for life firing. Range West 2023 Arrangements There is no access to Range West unless you have completed the annual safety briefing and handed your form into the guardhouse. You must report to the guardhouse before and after each climbing visit to Range West. The briefing dates for 2023 are as follows: Thursday 19th January 2023 at 18.00 Saturday 25th February 2023 at 09.00 Thursday 23rd March 2023 at 18.00 Friday 7th April 2023 at 09.00 Saturday 27th May 2023 at 09.00 Thursday 15th June 2023 at 18.00 Saturday 29th July 2023 at 09.00 https://www.thebmc.co.uk/pembrokeshire-a-year-in-review Since Easter 2013 year round access is allowed to Range West for briefed climbers, only on non-firing days (normally most weekends and Bank holidays 2 weeks at Easter and 2 weeks at Christmas and most of August). LIVE high explosive ammunition is fired on Range West and it is paramount that climbers (and all users) stay away from and DO NOT touch anything metal. For the same reasons belay stakes should not be placed. If you think belay stakes are required please contact the BMC who can arrange for stakes to be placed in a safe manner.

Weather Information

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