Minera Quarry

Clwyd Limestone

User attention

Bolt inspection carried out today 31-03-2021, incorrect bolt used without resin for every route which means under loading these are able to pull out the wall. This needs highlighting now its made its way into the guide book. Do not climb on these. 

from 01/03/2024

The massive limestone quarry near Coedpoeth and Minera has one superb wall of good rock characterised by a flowstone feature on its left edge. The quarry and surrounding area has recently (2018) been acquired by the North Wales Wildlife Trust and is being manged as a nature reserve. The access to the lower quarry has been agreed with the NWWT however due to concerns over the fixed gear its recommended by the BMC that great care should be taken before climbing, we are looking at options to re-equip the area.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Wildlife Trust No. of Routes: 15
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SJ 24989 52289

Be aware that access could be sensitive at the moment until a more formal access agreement is in place. The site is on the edge of a SSSI there are no know nesting birds on the current climbing area, further development is not permitted on the site.

Parking and Approach

From Coedpoeth heading west, as your leaving the village take the left turn towards Minera village after 0.4 miles take the right fork, and after another half a mile take the left onto Maes Y Fynnon Road towards the entrance of the quarry. Continue up the road and park near the entrance. 

Area information

The eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley contains some great limestone escarpments and number of excellent cliffs with climbing ranging from trad. protected low-grade classics to modern bolt protected desperates for the steely-fingered. The whole escarpment is a SSSI with many valuable conservation features including; rare cliff flora, well-developed (and undisturbed) scree slopes, and established pairs of legally protected breeding birds. In comparison to other parts of the country, the Clwyd birds appear to nest slightly earlier in the year and voluntary restrictions therefore apply from 15th Feb -15th July inclusive. Local conservation volunteers monitor the nesting birds and agree appropriate nesting restrictions each year with the BMC. Relations between climbers, the local conservationists and Denbighshire County Council remain very good and it is important visitors continue to adhere to the nesting restrictions and following conservation advice. - The nest sites are located between markers placed by DCC at the base of the Craig Arthur, Monks Buttress, and very occassioaly in the Trevor Area (but birds have not nested on that section for over 10 years). The markers are metal squares (15cm across) painted half red, half green. The nest site is usually located between two markers which are usually 30 - 40m apart - climbers should avoid all routes in the 'red zone'. Conservation Advice - If you hear the obvious shrieks of an alarmed peregrine, please retreat from the area. - Stick to established paths across scree slopes. - Do not lower-off with the rope running directly around tree trunks.

Weather Information

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Anonymous User
24/03/2021
Was approached today by a representative of the trust while climbing on the lower crag. He stated that the trust did not want climbing anywhere in the quarry. He could give no specific reason but thought that climbers would sue the trust if they were injured. I suspect that the situation here is about to escalate.
hbnick@tinyworld.co.uk 24/03/21