Masson Lees Quarry

Peak Limestone

User attention

On Sunday 29th October 2023 the quarry was used for an organised clay pigeon shooting event. The BMC and other site users are currently working to determine how this will affect climbing. In discussions related to this the owner re-iterated that there is no current permission to climb at Masson Lees Quarry. However, discussions are ongoing in relation climbing access generally and in particular to restrictions associated with shooting dates. Updates to follow.

Important and current notice: The owner has informed the BMC that clay pigeon shoots will be taking place every Sunday throughout November. As such the crag should be avoided on those days.

As ever, Please read and follow the parking advice below.


from 30/10/2023

A secluded limestone quarry above Matlock popular for its bolted sports routes. Also a significant venue for its volume of steep dry tooling lines in a cave at the back of the quarry. There is also an entrance to a fairly well used cave/mine at the base of the main wall and the path above the quarry is popular with walkers.

Currently unresolved parking issues exist. Please see information below.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Peak District Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 88
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SK2881658971

Please read and adhere to the parking and approach information.

Significant rockfall took place in March 2022 on the RHS of Red Wall, particularly around the route Fun in the Sun. Loose rock is very likely to remain on this part of the crag - caution is advised to anyone using this area.

Parking and Approach

There is a degree of tension in relation to parking, this has increased recently and there have been instances of damage to parked vehicles by annoyed locals.

Due to the narrow steep nature of the approach road there are issues with vehicles causing obstruction to road users.

Several farmers use the dirt track leading off Salter's Lane towards the quarry and it is particularly important that they are able to freely enter and exit the track. 

The broad entrance to a dirt track is on the left a bit after the left turn for Masson Lees farm, there is some parking space available here but the majority of this hard ground is required for large vehicles (including large articulated lorries) turning into and out of the farm track and should be left clear. 

Do not drive or park on or up the track itself.

Do not park in spaces on the road marked as passing places.

The track itself is used by at least three separate farms and large vehicles requiring a wide turning circle frequently pass along it. For this reason the farmers have asked for the spaces directly opposite the track entrance to be kept clear of parked vehicles.

Following the above advice means there are a very limited number of parking spaces, as such it is advisable to lift share and consider parking further away and walking in where possible, especially during summer evenings and weekends.

Other avenues are being explored in the hope of resolving the issue. Doing the most we can to avoid conflict in the meantime will greatly assist with these efforts. 

However, anyone parking anywhere on Salter's Lane should be aware that this in itself is a source of friction. Anyone concerned about a repeat incident of vehicle damage (broken mirrors) might consider using a dashboard camera!

Group Advice

Unlikely to be currently suitable for groups due to the limited parking issue.

Area information

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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Anonymous User
I was climbing here on Saturday. When we were leaving the police arrived telling us the place was private & we shouldn't be there. Then they said there was a suspicious package reported hence why they were here & proceeded to take our names. I suspect they only took our names in case they come back & they've already told us it's private & have our names.
The groundworks have apparently restarted, with one mineshaft already blocked and more heavy equipment operating on site. The DCA are currently following up on this. (Info from a UKC forum post!
Anonymous User
i was climbing here in the 7/11/2020. on "A life of grim i kicked a rock out of a wall around the 4th bolt after taking a 2.5m. whipper

*unrelated* - we witnessed somebody climb above the anchor attempting to top out further left along the wall as we were. he lost footing and kicked a boulder about half his belayers height down. no one was hurt apart from his pride and relationship.
Anonymous User
It looks like clay pigeon shooting may now be taking place in the quarry (as of 30/10/23), as of yet I don't know how regularly, how this will affect access or of the BMC are in discussions with the land owner