Marian Bach

Northern Limestone (Inland)

The landowner of the land and house on the land above the cliff  approached the BMC in April 2018 stating that they do not want climbers on their land and stating that climbing is not allowed on this crag.  This situation was exarcebated by two climbers who parked in their private drive and approached the crag by trespassing and climbing over gates and fences on their land. 

Further investigations show that the cliff face is actually registered to a different land owner but the landowners of the land at the top of the cliff make it clear they do not want climbers on the cliff.  They also dispute the land registration ownership details. Climbers that are seen here by the owners of the cliff top fields will be asked to leave by them but from land registry information they do not appear to own the actual cliff face. Please be aware that climbing here will antagonise the landowners at the top of the cliff but according to offical Land Registry  records, they do not appear to own the actual cliff top or the cliff face. The views of the legally registered owner of the cliff, towards allowing access for climbing and fixed equipment is not known but to date he has not objected to climbing on this venue. 

Do not under any circumstances approach the cliff from the top.  This is private land over which there is no public access.  Access should only be along the public right of way that passes the base of the cliff,  past Ty Ucha Farm. 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 17
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SH8831577425

Parking and Approach

Do not under any circumstances approach from above or park in the driveways of neighbouring houses. The only approach to the crag is along the public right of way to the east and along the base of the cliff. 

Group Advice

Best avoided given the sensitivity around access. 
Area information

This area includes Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment, Castle Inn, Penmaenhead as well as many other sports crags along the A55 corridor. Many of the crags, including Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment and Castle Inn all lie within land designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest, and vegetation removal, modification of rock faces, removal of rocks, etc. should be avoided.

Weather Information

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