Llanddulas Cave

The Ormes

User attention

Following expert advice, due to the COVID-19 outbreak the BMC advises that all climbers exercise restraint by not climbing and avoiding all but essential travel. You can read the BMC’s full position on climbing during the COVID-19 crisis here from 25/03/2020

November 13 NOTE: Parking problems at this crag. Please see access notes below.Llanddulas Cave has been developed with a set of excellent sport routes from F5 to F8b, some of which are up to 25m in length. There was a period of development in 2009 and in 2010/2011 there were some major routes established and no less than 3 new areas were developed so that there are now 5 sectors:1.Forgotten Sun Area (Good range of grades and some quarried rock) 2.Upper Cave (Varied, from major overhangs to more friendly stuff)3.K O Wall(a few short but worthwhile climbs)4.Golf Ball Wall (short routes but fun climbing)5.The Tower(A big crag. Long routes with a sustained feel)

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 83
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SH917779

Parking and Approach

Llanddulas Cave is within an SSSI (Gwrych Castle Wood). Come off the A55 at J23. Turn left, pass through the village and turn right up Beulah Avenue. Turn left up Ffordd Newydd and park at the top. Turn left at the top and walk back down the road for 100m. A break in the wall on the right is the start of a path up to the crag.NOV 13 UPDATE - Residents on Ffordd Newydd/New Road have been complaining about climbers and walkers parking insensitively on this road. Please ensure that you park carefully, being sure not to inconvenience local residents; especially do not park close to, or opposite any drives or gateways. If there are already several cars here, there's plenty of alternative parking: either at the car park near the beach gained via Beach House Road opposite Rhyd-y-foel Road (near the excellent Tides Cafe LL22 8HA) or on Beulah Avenue gained by turning right at the Llanddulas village hall.https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=1005
Area information

The Great Orme Due to the proximity of the public highway at Upper Pen Trwyn (Great Orme) and the breeding bird colonies, a number of special arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and the local authority to reduce the risk to the public and to conservation. The whole of the Orme is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and an European Special Area Of Conservation whcih mean that the natural features are legally protected. - Climbing above the Marine Drive (Upper Pen Trwyn, Great Orme) is only permitted after 6.00pm during all Bank Holiday weekends and school summer holidays (15 July to 8 Sept). - Green and red marker posts indicate the open and restricted areas. Also see the Onsight North Wales Limestone guidebook. - The bolt lower-offs at UPT were installed by the BMC so climbers do not need to exit over unstable cliff top. - The Marine Drive is a one-way road, do not drive back down the road towards the gate-house after climbing - this could jepordise access. There have been recent issues with cars blocking the Marine Drive near to Parisellas cave, and climbers are requested to be aware that large vehicles (inc. double decker buses!) do need to be able to get past. -some of the crags that lie below the Marine Drive are also subject to seasonal climbing restrictions due to nesting birds, refer to individual crag entries for more info. West Shore crags - including Craig Heulog. No climbing permitted at any of these crags (above or below the Marine Drive) due to very high conservation interest. The Little Orme The restrictions for public safety at the Great Orme (Upper Pen Trwyn) do not apply to the Little Orme. However, a number of the crags are restricted for nesting seabirds - see individual crag entries for more info.

Weather Information

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