User attention
We are temporarily changing the advice in the code of practice regarding climbing in wet or damp conditions for this winter. Only climb on properly dry rock – this will usually take multiple days of dry weather in a row before a visit, and even then nothing is guaranteed. If you are unsure, leave climbing for another day. It might be frustrating to travel only to find the crag isn’t in condition, but we all need to have the long term sustainability of the crags in mind. Once holds are snapped or damaged, they cannot be replaced. from 02/12/2020
A steep dirty wall rising straight from the road with as yet only one route, and a collection of lower but cleaner buttresses up the hillside away from the road. A bit of an expedition but strangely satisfying in a perverse way!Of course, as with all Southern Sandstone, top-roping and bouldering/soloing are the only acceptable methods of ascent. There are plenty of trees for arranging topropes. Remember to extend slings to avoid moving rope coming into contact with rock.
Climbing Area:
London & South East
Rock Type:
Sandstone
Importance:
Local
CRoW Land:
No
Ownership:
Unknown
No. of Routes:
9
Within National Park:
No
Year Developed:
Grid Reference:
TQ491427
Parking and Approach
The roadside buttress is at a slight bend in the road from Chiddingstone Hoath towards Markbeech, immediately past the entrance to Hoath House. There is limited opportunity for parking but it is possible a short way further down the road where it widens slightly. Belaying will be tricky owing to the presence of the road. The other buttresses can be hard to find. They are about 300m to the east and 50m up the hill from the road. Access may require some bushwhacking and can be attempted direct from the road - or alternatively via a small track leading up the hill opposite the entrance to Hoath House. A formal garden appears to have existed at one time in the area around the track and there are some interesting remnants.
Follow this link for the definitive Code of Practice for climbing on southern sandstone;
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/access_conservation/southern_sandstone/ssc05_print.pdf
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag