The broad, sheer cliff of grey limestone that sits at the centre of the gorge tends towards a slabby, technical style of climbing with multi pitch routes up to 90m. There are plenty of excellent routes in the lower and mid grades, but bring your headgame as the compact limestone can often make for bold pitches. The most popular routes are also renowned for their polish, but a careful approach and steady head can still provide great experiences on these much loved classics. Also of note is that some of the best bouldering in the area can be had here.
||South West & Southern
||Restrictions/ Sensitive Access
||No. of Routes:
|Within National Park:
Restrictions apply from
Reason: Nesting Birds
The temporary climbing restriction for nesting peregrines starts from the route Depravity and finishes at the right edge of Main Wall. Morning Slab routes (including Dawn Walk and The Corner) are unrestricted - see the photo topo attached to this page.
Cliff-top entry/exit points which access the restricted area have been marked with red paint on the fence. Please do not use these access points or abseil down routes which are reached from them during the restricted period.
The restriction will be lifted if the birds fledge early and listed on this page as soon as this happens.
Parking and Approach
Limited parking is available under Main Wall, alternatively there is ample parking above the crag on Circular Road with paths leading down to the bottom of the Gorge.
Guidebook info currently being updated
There are no files associated with this crag