Aldery Cliff

Central Limestone

User attention

Following the unsanctioned work carried out at Aldery without the BMC's knowledge over the winter/early spring, a position statement has been published.

An inspection of the bolts installed to replace the tree lower offs was carried out by the BMC’s Technical Officer and the bolts were found to be inappropriate for use as climbing anchors and have now been removed. This means that for the timebeing there will be no lower off/abseil points in situ at the crag and climbers visiting the crag should be prepared to either top out on the routes (through the sometimes chossy/grassy top sections) or pre place a rope/sling from a tree at the top to lower off/abseil from.

Importantly, it should be noted that the cable handrail running partway along the top of the crag is NOT suitable for use as a belay anchor.

The long term solution to the lack of fixed anchors below the top of the crag will be discussed at the next Peak Area meeting on 07/06/14 at the Maynard, Grindleford - all are welcome to attend and contribute to the debate.

from 01/05/2017 to 30/06/2017

BMC owned disused quarry - easy access and a sheltered location.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Peak District Rock Type: Limestone
County Derbyshire Access Status: Restrictions/ Sensitive Access
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 26
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1959
Grid Reference: SK097663

The crag is owned and managed by the BMC for the benefit of climbers. Flytipping and litter from bbqs/parties has periodically been an issue at the crag with bin liners full of rubbish collected on cleanup days in the past and BMC signage torn down. Please report any flytipping/vandalism to the BMC and note down any vehicle number plates if you see the perpetrators in action.

Climbers are advised to avoid routes on the left side of the crag near the cave entrance and the right side of the crag below the obvious overhang, as concern has been expressed with the stability of the rock in these areas. The BMC are monitoring the situation.

Reason: Other

Bats have been known to use Mitre Crack as a roost in late spring/early summer. It is very obvious when they are present due to the noisy chattering coming from the depths of the crack - please avoid this route when the bats are present.

CRoW Information

The BMC has dedicated the crag as Open Access land. Find the map here, http://www.openaccess.naturalengland.org.uk/wps/portal/oasys/maps/Section4

Area information

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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25/06/2017
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