Dinas Mot

Snowdonia

One of the few crags in Britain with every grade - and something good at each of them. (Assuming Leo Houlding's E9 7a Trauma is good.. you try it.) Multi-pitch routes up to 580ft. Best include Direct Route (VS 5b), Diagonal (HVS 5a), Superdirect (E1 5b), Ten Degrees North (E2 5b), Stairway To Heaven (E3 5c).. it's a long list.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Igneous
Importance: National CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 117
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1900
Grid Reference: SH627562

The route Nexus on Dinas Mot appears to have a large loose block on pitch 3 (as given on UKC logbooks - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=3301), at the end of the ledge traverse, there's a large detached block with a well used chalked up handhold. Climbers doing the route recently (2017) are concerned that it may be in danger of falling if it continues to be used.  It's also positioned directly above the belay for pitch 2, which is equipped as an abseil point, the top part of pitch 2, and the starting point for several routes on the buttress.

Parking and Approach

Park at the Cromlech boulders (get there early) and tonk up the hill. Don't forget to enjoy the view from the top, as well as the middle and bottom.
Area information

A wide range of cliffs - mainly traditional and multi pitch inc. the popular Llanberis Pass, Idwal Slabs, Clogwyn du'r Arddu and Cwm Silyn cliffs, but also outlying outcrops such as Carreg Alltrem. Many crags are on CROW access land - but not all especially some of the outcrops which lie on private enclosed land. Most of central Snowdonia is both designated an SSSI and also is an European Special Area of Conservation on account of the upland habitat and associated geology and plants found here.

Weather Information

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