Denbigh Castle Boulders

Clwyd Limestone

A sedate little limestone crag, split into two main boulders. The left boulder contains the bulk of routes ranging from delicate slabs, to short but thuggy overhangs. The right boulder features a serious of overhangs with hidden holds and useful grooves.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 10
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SJ678865552.

Parking and Approach

Crag can be accessed by the track just left at the top of love lane, after the road drops down. Take the immediate left onto the track until you see a winding path approximately 30 meters on your left hand side - follow this up into the castle grounds where the boulders lay.

Area information

The eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley contains some great limestone escarpments and number of excellent cliffs with climbing ranging from trad. protected low-grade classics to modern bolt protected desperates for the steely-fingered. The whole escarpment is a SSSI with many valuable conservation features including; rare cliff flora, well-developed (and undisturbed) scree slopes, and established pairs of legally protected breeding birds. In comparison to other parts of the country, the Clwyd birds appear to nest slightly earlier in the year and voluntary restrictions therefore apply from 15th Feb -15th July inclusive. Local conservation volunteers monitor the nesting birds and agree appropriate nesting restrictions each year with the BMC. Relations between climbers, the local conservationists and Denbighshire County Council remain very good and it is important visitors continue to adhere to the nesting restrictions and following conservation advice. - The nest sites are located between markers placed by DCC at the base of the Craig Arthur, Monks Buttress, and in the Trevor Area. The markers are metal squares (15cm across) painted half red, half green. The nest site is usually located between two markers which are usually 30 - 40m apart - climbers should avoid all routes in the 'red zone'. Conservation Advice - If you hear the obvious shrieks of an alarmed peregrine, please retreat from the area. - Stick to established paths across scree slopes. - Do not lower-off with the rope running directly around tree trunks.

Weather Information

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