Craig Melyn (Sychnant Pass)

The Ormes

Small crag at the head of Sychnant pass, easily seen when driving up the pass from Capelulo / Dwygyfylchi. Park in the layby at the top of the pass (by the ice cream van in Summer) Walk towards Alltwen on a farm track. The crag is below the track on the left.Approach is awkward over loose pebble scree, and may vary with differing amounts of bracken / gorse growth; prickly!. The easiest appears to be to pass the top of the crag (having a quick look for belay anchor placements) then scramble down the far side and back along the foot of the cliff, monitoring for Kestrel activity in springtime. Alternatives include approaching between the first rocky outcrop and the main crag or dropping to the valley bottom and ascending the scree. None of these is pleasant!

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Igneous
Importance: CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 1
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SH749771

Parking and Approach

The Craig Melyn crag complex is part of the Sychnant Pass Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and a Regionally Important Geological Site (RIGS). It is the usual nest site for the local Kestrel, and habitat for Sea Campion. (Note that another part of the Craig Melyn, the overhang, is the only local site of the nationally rare Lanceolate Spleenwort, Asplenium billottii).
Area information

The Great Orme Due to the proximity of the public highway at Upper Pen Trwyn (Great Orme) and the breeding bird colonies, a number of special arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and the local authority to reduce the risk to the public and to conservation. The whole of the Orme is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and an European Special Area Of Conservation whcih mean that the natural features are legally protected. - Climbing above the Marine Drive (Upper Pen Trwyn, Great Orme) is only permitted after 6.00pm during all Bank Holiday weekends and school summer holidays (15 July to 8 Sept). - Green and red marker posts indicate the open and restricted areas. Also see the Onsight North Wales Limestone guidebook. - The bolt lower-offs at UPT were installed by the BMC so climbers do not need to exit over unstable cliff top. - The Marine Drive is a one-way road, do not drive back down the road towards the gate-house after climbing - this could jepordise access. There have been recent issues with cars blocking the Marine Drive near to Parisellas cave, and climbers are requested to be aware that large vehicles (inc. double decker buses!) do need to be able to get past. -some of the crags that lie below the Marine Drive are also subject to seasonal climbing restrictions due to nesting birds, refer to individual crag entries for more info. West Shore crags - including Craig Heulog. No climbing permitted at any of these crags (above or below the Marine Drive) due to very high conservation interest. The Little Orme The restrictions for public safety at the Great Orme (Upper Pen Trwyn) do not apply to the Little Orme. However, a number of the crags are restricted for nesting seabirds - see individual crag entries for more info.

Weather Information

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