Conwy Mountain

The Ormes

Very interesting slab above Conwy and ideal for beginners! Popular with groups especially the local outdoor centre - Oaklands. If just starting out and have rigging rope, you can bottom rope, but if up for the lead, head to the routes on the right as the final meter or two is a very nice cruxy finish with little protection! [We don't recommend that first leaders try badly-protected routes; this isn't a crag for first-time leaders - UKC Ed] At the top of the crag there are a few stakes in good condition! Probably ideal for abseil practice as there isnt many ledges or features and the stakes at the top are perfect for this. [nolo 10/06][CHECK ANY STAKE YOU MIGHT ABSEIL OFF. Can you kick it? Pull it? Is it metal, wood? Take care and back up your abseil anchors: use at least two independent ones, rigged so they don't have the deadly triangle of forces. And if you don't know what that is, don't abseil - UKC Ed]

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Volcanic
Importance: CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 10
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SH762778

Parking and Approach

No access problems known of. National trust land.
Area information

The Great Orme Due to the proximity of the public highway at Upper Pen Trwyn (Great Orme) and the breeding bird colonies, a number of special arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and the local authority to reduce the risk to the public and to conservation. The whole of the Orme is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and an European Special Area Of Conservation whcih mean that the natural features are legally protected. - Climbing above the Marine Drive (Upper Pen Trwyn, Great Orme) is only permitted after 6.00pm during all Bank Holiday weekends and summer holidays (15 July to 8 Sept). - Green and red marker posts indicate the open and restricted areas. Also see the Onsight North Wales Limestone guidebook. - The bolt lower-offs at UPT were installed by the BMC so climbers do not need to exit over unstable cliff top. - The Marine Drive is a one-way road, do not drive back down the road towards the gate-house after climbing - this could jepordise access. There have been recent issues with cars blocking the Marine Drive near to Parisellas cave, and climbers are requested to be aware that large vehicles (inc. double decker buses!) do need to be able to get past. -some of the crags that lie below the Marine Drive are also subject to seasonal climbing restrictions due to nesting birds, refer to individual crag entries for more info. West Shore crags - including Craig Heulog. No climbing permitted at any of these crags (above or below the Marine Drive) due to very high conservation interest. The Little Orme The restrictions for public safety at the Great Orme (Upper Pen Trwyn) do not apply to the Little Orme. However, a number of the crags are restricted for nesting seabirds - see individual crag entries for more info.

Weather Information

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