Big quarry still with plenty of scope for new routing. The Nanpantan slab is fully developed with bold routes from HVS to E5 and the most solid and obvious lines on the tiers to the left have been climbed. Some routes have been put up on the back wall and the mound on the left of the approach path, though there are still routes to be done.
Most routes are slabby and loose, with poor protection (take micro wires and slings for the tiny trees) though there are also some good bolted routes in the lower grades.
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Parking and Approach
Take J23 off the M1 and follow the A512 towards Shepshed. Turn left at the first traffic lights down Ingleberry Road and follow this to park carefully on the verge by Longcliffe Lodge Farm after passing under the M1. (Access that was previous used from the layby on Nanpantan Road at Grid Ref 497167 is not recommended.)
A footpath leads across the field, at the other side follow a hedge leftwards and cross it where the hedge thins out. From here a track leads down into the quarry.
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