Charnwood Quarry

East Midlands

A large quarry with many slabs and walls on multiple levels offering both bold trad routes and some bolted climbs. 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Midlands Rock Type: Slate
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 62
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SK492169

Representaitves of Biffa, who manage the site have recently stated that there is no permitted public access to this site.

Parking and Approach

Access to this quarry has been effectively removed by installation of industrial fences in the lower levels of the quarry and a razor wire fence around the quarry boundary along the previous access route from Longcliffe Farm.


Area information

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

Crag Update Feed

Use this feed to update other users about crag conditions or similar current information. Suggested updates to page information should be made using the ‘report a page issue’ button above.

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
Anonymous User
You can no longer access the crag from the Nanpantan rd layby as a new fence hasbeen put in on the quarry boundary .
Anonymous User
The comments for this site are very out dated, the site was purchased by the council specifically for climbing. Access is either at the farm, but park up on the grass and don't block the farmers access, or round the back and at the top, parking is more limited down a busy road/hill. At the farm you will need to cross a field usually filled with cows, just don't run and be calm, that was the farmers advice.
Anonymous User
Can still gain access from the B591 road and crossing the farmers field using the footpaths and stiles then walking down into the bottom and walking back on yourself to reach the nanpantan slab
I have been informed today that the owners are putting up an 8ft fence around the site and have paid for dog patrols every day for the next 10 weeks. Clearly they no longer want people in the Quarry! I will attempt to visit the quarry myself to confirm this and if it’s true I will attempt to contact the land owners . However, for now it seems there is no access for the public.
Anonymous User
Went there on evening of the 15th August. At the edge of the quarry we found a car and a van, both had guard dogs in. Despite a lot of barking, no one came along that we could speak to, so we do not know why the quarry is closed. Didn’t want to risk being attacked by dogs, so we left. Shame as the climbing looks good. Can the BMC investigate the access situation?
Anonymous User
I paid the quarry a visit today just to check it out having never climbed there. I found that on the approach to Nanpanton Slab the quarry owners have recently erected a tall galvanised iron security gate and fence across the track, just before you reach the slab ! This would be quite difficult to negotiate. As far as I can see the only way in would be to ab in down the slab, though there is a shallow overgrown rake leading down to the track from above it. This lies in between the slab and the new gate, a rope down this and some secateurs could facilitate an access point.
Anonymous User
PLEASE NOTE: The quarry authorities have recently began hourly patrols 24/7. Despite the steel fences the quarry is still relatively easily accessible through a number of ways. I will not post these but look hard enough and you will find them. Personal opinion is that as of now it is not worth attempting to climb or ab in the quarry due to the likelihood of getting caught.
Anonymous User
There are now security vans here, two of them went yesterday to confirm