Charnwood Quarry

East Midlands

Big quarry still with plenty of scope for new routing. The Nanpantan slab is fully developed with bold routes from HVS to E5 and the most solid and obvious lines on the tiers to the left have been climbed. Some routes have been put up on the back wall and the mound on the left of the approach path, though there are still routes to be done.

Most routes are slabby and loose, with poor protection (take micro wires and slings for the tiny trees) though there are also some good bolted routes in the lower grades.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Midlands Rock Type: Slate
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 62
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SK492169

Parking and Approach

Take J23 off the M1 and follow the A512 towards Shepshed. Turn left at the first traffic lights down Ingleberry Road and follow this to park carefully on the verge by Longcliffe Lodge Farm after passing under the M1. (Access that was previous used from the layby on Nanpantan Road at Grid Ref 497167 is not recommended.)

A footpath leads across the field, at the other side follow a hedge leftwards and cross it where the hedge thins out. From here a track leads down into the quarry.

 

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4
1) Anonymous User
03/04/2018
You can no longer access the crag from the Nanpantan rd layby as a new fence hasbeen put in on the quarry boundary .
2) Anonymous
05/04/2018
This comment broke the house rules and has been removed
3) Anonymous User
05/04/2018
The comments for this site are very out dated, the site was purchased by the council specifically for climbing. Access is either at the farm, but park up on the grass and don't block the farmers access, or round the back and at the top, parking is more limited down a busy road/hill. At the farm you will need to cross a field usually filled with cows, just don't run and be calm, that was the farmers advice.
4) Anonymous User
14/05/2018
Can still gain access from the B591 road and crossing the farmers field using the footpaths and stiles then walking down into the bottom and walking back on yourself to reach the nanpantan slab