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South East Wales

Clearly visible from Ferndale town,it is best to fix it's location roughly as it cannot be located visually from the road above. Despite it's previous bad reviews further inspection has revealed that once re-geared the earlier routes are very good and the crop of new ones are on excellent rock and sunny for most of the day and evening.This crag probably has the biggest crop of 4+/5's of any sandstone crag,enough to occupy a sunny summer evening. (description taken from the SWMC website)

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Sandstone
Importance: CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 19
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: ST003967

Parking and Approach

Take the A4233 to Ferndale and follow the signs to Blaenllechau on the other side of the valley. Follow the hairpin road into the village and use the turning circle to negotiate the right very sharp bend into the minor mountain road to Penrhiwceiber/Llanwonno. Follow this road to the end of the highest terrace and park in the limited space by the 30mph signs.Walk 4 mins up the road and follow the rough path down and left at the crash barrier.It is also possible to park a small car here or one of the lower terraces if the previous spot is full.
Area information

A wide variety of crags, including adventurous sea cliffs at Ogmore, modern sports routes on inland limestone and sandstone cliffs, and winter climbing venues in the Brecon Beacons. Up to date route info can found on the South Wales Climbing Wiki:-

Weather Information

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29/04/18 - Regarding the shared belay for Fairy Godmother and Fairy’s Liquid (no. 8 and 9 in the Rockfax guide). The nut securing the right hand bolt at the lower off is loose. Could only finger tighten so still needs securing. The left hand bolt is solid though