Blacknor area

Portland

User attention

Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The north end of the west coast cliff sit high above the sea, the central and south sections are the first to catch the afternoon sun and exposed to the wind drying the rock makes this a good year round venue. With a good mix of grades and route up to 30m long make it ever popular. The under cliff has some huge fallen blocks with easier grade sports routes and some class bouldering, but can be expose to heavy seas.

 

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 589
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1971
Grid Reference: SY679715

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

Parking and Approach

All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the signposted 'Climbers & Walkers Car Park' at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. This is pay and display and parking wardens regularly patrol this car park so don't be tempted not to pay!

Don’t park elsewhere on the housing estate - if the car park is full, park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub.


 

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Anonymous User
05/05/2019
Access path is largely restored if exposed in places. Blacknor beach Solar and Lunar boulders have both shifted and dramatically increased in grade and severity though remain largely in the same place with the angle turning from the previous slab to steep overhang.
Anonymous User
29/05/2023
One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area