Blacknor area

Portland

High above the sea, these are most northerly sections of climbable cliff on the west coast of Portland with a huge number and variety of routes across the grades, as well as some high quality boulder problems at Blacknor Fort Quarry. The crags get plenty of afternoon sun and are a great option in the cooler months when they can become real sun traps. The rock here also seems to be less affected by greasy conditions than other lower crags which are closer to the sea.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 589
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1971
Grid Reference: SY679715

Since 2014, signficant landslide activity has occurred along this part of the island. The most significant of which is disappearance of the huge spoil heap that used to exist between Blacknor South and Far South crags, which the access path ran down. This whole grass-covered slope has now slid away, leaving a newly-unearthed cliff in its place and making the previous access route impossible without abseiling. Landslides have also meant that the ground level at the base of the crag has dropped by 15-20ft in places, meaning some first bolts are much higher than before. For those routes having a long clipstick is well worthwhile to allow pre-clipping of the now very high first bolts.

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restriction applies from Seattle Be the Day to theThe Death of Cool inclusive.

Parking and Approach

All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the signposted 'Climbers & Walkers Car Park' at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. This is pay and display and parking wardens regularly patrol this car park so don't be tempted not to pay!

Don’t park elsewhere on the housing estate - if the car park is full, park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub.


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Anonymous User
05/05/2019
Access path is largely restored if exposed in places. Blacknor beach Solar and Lunar boulders have both shifted and dramatically increased in grade and severity though remain largely in the same place with the angle turning from the previous slab to steep overhang.