Neddyfields crag & bouldering

Portland

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 45
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SY 691 700

The grassy earth slope below the crag has slid away in a number of places, meaning the ground level at the bottom of the crag is now 10-15 feet lower than it was at some points. There are also sections where the flat terrace at the bottom where climbers belayed previously has now been replaced by a loose earth and rubble slope. The slides that have occurred may not have fully stabilised yet.

This means that the first bolts of some routes will now be much higher than before and climbers may need to belay from loose rubble slopes. There will be new first bolts placed to protect these routes, however there is quite a bit of work to be done and this won't start until the ground has properly settled, so if you're planning on visiting these areas, it would be worth taking a long clipstick for the time being as well as a brush to clean off the earth covering the rock. There are many sections of the crag path that look very unstable at the moment and it is probably best avoided, but anyone who does decide to visit this area should be extremely cautious.

CRoW Information

Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.

Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.  

Area information

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