Ruthin Escarpment

Clwyd Limestone

User attention

Following expert advice, due to the COVID-19 outbreak the BMC advises that all climbers exercise restraint by not climbing and avoiding all but essential travel. You can read the BMC’s full position on climbing during the COVID-19 crisis here from 25/03/2020

A wooded limestone escarpment overlooking the Dyffryn Clwyd valley - mainly short sports routes and some hard bouldering.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 30
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1976
Grid Reference: SJ120538

The whole escarpment is within an SSSI (Coed Adwy Gwynt SSSI) and there have been issues of vegetation clearance and rock modification which have concerned both the owners and the Natural Rescources for Wales. The original documented climbing is on the northern buttresses and is privately owned.  The landowners of the northern buttresses have been concerned regarding liability as they were informed by thier insurers that they cannot allow climbing on this land. The BMC and the landowners have agreed that climbing can continue here but strictly on the basis that all climbers willingly accept the risks involved with climbing  and that no new routes or bolting take palce

Some more recent developments are on the southern buttress and are on a nature reserve owned and managed by the Butterfly Conservation Trust. Similar issues exist here and climbing only takes place strictly at your own risk and no new bolting or vegetation clearance should take place.

The owners and NRW have stated that there should not be any further vegetation clearance, tree felling or changes to the rock (such as removal of loose rock or clearing blocks from the base) without permission.

 

 

 

 

Area information

The eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley contains some great limestone escarpments and number of excellent cliffs with climbing ranging from trad. protected low-grade classics to modern bolt protected desperates for the steely-fingered. The whole escarpment is a SSSI with many valuable conservation features including; rare cliff flora, well-developed (and undisturbed) scree slopes, and established pairs of legally protected breeding birds. In comparison to other parts of the country, the Clwyd birds appear to nest slightly earlier in the year and voluntary restrictions therefore apply from 15th Feb -15th July inclusive. Local conservation volunteers monitor the nesting birds and agree appropriate nesting restrictions each year with the BMC. Relations between climbers, the local conservationists and Denbighshire County Council remain very good and it is important visitors continue to adhere to the nesting restrictions and following conservation advice. - The nest sites are located between markers placed by DCC at the base of the Craig Arthur, Monks Buttress, and in the Trevor Area. The markers are metal squares (15cm across) painted half red, half green. The nest site is usually located between two markers which are usually 30 - 40m apart - climbers should avoid all routes in the 'red zone'. Conservation Advice - If you hear the obvious shrieks of an alarmed peregrine, please retreat from the area. - Stick to established paths across scree slopes. - Do not lower-off with the rope running directly around tree trunks.

Weather Information

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