Regional Access Database

Advice Wintour's Leap

Long line of west-facing crags above the Wye, rising to nearly 100 metres. Mostly quarried in the past. Mixed ethic; mainly trad but some sport.

The land above the crag contains a number of private gardens.

BMC Area South West & Southern Rock Type Limestone
Climbing Area Wye Valley Access Status Advice
County Gloucestershire CRoW Land No
Importance National No. of Routes 352
Ownership Wildlife Trust Year Developed 1958
Within National Park No Grid Reference ST540962

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. This does not affect climbing up to the Great Ledge. For the time being, pitches above the Great Ledge are not possible and descent should be by abseil from one of the two bolted abseil stations above “The Tap” or “Joe’s Route”. Two or three abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall allowing the last pitches to be climbed, but please do not top out on these routes and use the abseil stations instead.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners do not allow climbing on this section of crag. If you do climb here, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall are privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Restrictions apply from  25 April - 30 June. Reason - Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes from The Flight of the Phoenix rightwards (looking in), including that route.

Generally unsuitable.

This page was last updated on 26/04/2016. RAD is updated as and when access changes and a historic date does not mean that the information is out of date, only that the access situation hasn't changed.