Stone Farm Rocks

Southern Sandstone

User attention

Following a review of anchors used on Southern Sandstone, the way we use bolted anchors in the area is changing. The current system of a main bolt (which takes all of the load), secured to a backup bolt with a swaged steel cable has been used on Southern Sandstone for 30 years or more. However, updated expert advice has recommended that this changes to both bolts equalised to a central point, in line with standard practice elsewhere.

It is not possible to equalise the bolts with in situ equipment in a way that is both strong and will not cause damage to the rock so climbers will now need to equalise both bolts as part of their top-rope setup. In the short term, all swaged wire backups will be removed from bolted sandstone anchors as soon as possible. Additional bolts will be placed where needed at Harrison’s and Stone Farm Rocks as part of an ongoing BMC program of renewing and updating bolted anchors.

Visitors should arrive with equipment to allow them to equalise the double bolt anchors to a central point – there are many ways of doing this but the most common and easiest is to use either a sling or rigging rope with screw gates on each bolt. Remember to extend the anchor point sufficiently to prevent your climbing rope from wearing the rock. It’s a good idea to use rope protectors over any rigging to prevent damage to slings/ropes and the rock from normal movement whilst belaying.

The BMC would like to thank DMM for their assistance with testing.

from 24/09/2021

Another stunning south east venue owned by the BMC, usually considerably quieter than the nearby Harrison’s. As with all southern sandstone, leader placed protection cannot be used because of the soft nature of the rock and whilst this might be a little unusual for us trad obsessed Brits, you will quickly get into the top-roping zone and come to appreciate the fine climbing on offer. This is a great place to while away a lazy afternoon, ticking classics and basking in the sun as it dips over the treetops.

Crag information
Climbing Area: London & South East Rock Type: Sandstone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: BMC Owned No. of Routes: 199
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1943
Grid Reference: TQ381348

The BMC has owned the crag since 2001 and now manages the site for climbers and conservation with input from a group of keen local volunteers on the Harrisons Rocks Management Group (HRMG).

The rocks are situated 2¼ miles south-south-west of East Grinstead, and just to the south of a public bridleway that leads west from Stone Hill House. The crag is designated under the name of Stone Hill Rocks as a geological SSSI due to the unusual bedding formations. It is an important site for the study and interpretation of sedimentary structures in the upper Lower Tunbridge Wells Sand. Bolt belays have been placed at the top of the crag in an attempt to minimize any further erosion.

There is usually a bees nest in the trees at the top of Remote. The bees seem to be fairly tolerant of climbers nearby but it is worth being careful whilst climbing in this area when they are present and active.

Please do not run rigging ropes across the bridleway from trees on the other side as this will obstruct a Public Right of Way.

Parking and Approach

Parking is extremely limited in the pull in/layby on Admiral’s Bridge Lane and much better options are to use the car parks at the end of Admiral’s Bridge Lane or Legsheath Lane.

Squeezing too many cars into the layby on Admiral’s Bridge Lane will obstruct other traffic and cause unnecessary friction with local people, so please use the other parking areas if there is any doubt about whether your car will cause an obstruction.

CRoW Information

Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.

Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website.  

Area information

Follow this link for the definitive Code of Practice for climbing on southern sandstone; https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/access_conservation/southern_sandstone/ssc05_print.pdf

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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