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Avon Gorge (Unknown Area)

Avon and Somerset

The towering limestone crags at the left end of the Gorge, comprising the Upper Wall reached from the ramps, and all routes to it's left.

Avon Fixed Equipment Policy- https://tinyurl.com/AvonFEP

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Private No. of Routes:
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: ST 5595 7470

The land beneath the Unknown Wall, The Exploding Galaxy Wall, and much of Unknown Buttress is privately owned (i.e. the land behind the roadside wall which is customarily used to approach these cliffs) . It is an unusual ownership situation as the rockfaces above are owned by Bristol City Council (BCC). Following a rockfall in January 2013, the (formerly good) climbing access to this excellent section of crag has been banned by the landowner due to liability concerns. Despite multiple attempts to negotiate, (including legal advice that the landowner would not be liable for rockfall from adjacent land), beyond an initial conversation the BMC has not been able to contact the landowner or his agent and has had no further response to correspondence sent.

A legal dispute is ongoing between the landowner and BCC, and until this is sorted out formal or allowed access to the crag is unlikely to be granted by the landowner or BCC. Climbers are advised to re-check this page regularly in case the current situation changes.

If climbers do visit Unknown Wall, The Exploding Galaxy Wall, or Unknown Buttress access is possible by carefully targeted abseils from above. This allows direct access to the base of the crag and – crucially – avoids crossing or belaying from the privately owned land below. Be aware that there is potential for further loose rock in this area, (as there is throughout the gorge) and plan accordingly. Please also note that currently there is no formal or allowed access, and if challenged by the landowner, BCC or agents of either party be polite and leave as soon as is safely possible.

Parking and Approach

Note that during the winter of 20/21 there was a substantial rockfall from the Dragon area of Exploding Galaxy Wall and there is a high probability that there is further instability in the vicinity of the collapsed section.

Area information

Weather Information

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JOHN ALCOCK
04/03/2021
There are two further access problems for those wishing to climb on the Unknown Wall area besides the landowner not allowing access to the bottom.
1. There has been a major rockfall from the Dragon area. Dragon and Unknown Pleasures have been affected and are probably unsafe to climb. The climbing on Amanita is unaffected, but the bottom of the route could be exposed to further rockfall. Hammer Horror and routes further right including Yellow Edge and Quip U for Leisure are unaffected and appear fairly safe from rockfall. Based on visual inspection from the ground. 04.03.21.
2. There is now a large twiggy raven's nest on Psychopath Way in the break before the second belay of Yellow Edge. From the top of the Ramp I watched a raven sat on the edge of the nest and flying in and out on 02.03.21. I looked through binoculars from the ground on 04.03.21. but couldn't see over the top of the nest to check if there was a bird on eggs. Egg laying often begins in late February. If the ravens do lay eggs there, then there will have to be a climbing restriction until the young fledge. It would definitely have to cover Unknown Pleasures, Pschopath way, Hammer Horror, Zombie Nation, Yellow Edge, Captain Swing, Haystack and the Imploding Galaxy. Amanita might go a bit close too. My feeling is that Was it You? doesn't need banning as it's tucked round the corner and I couldn't see the nest from the route. I suggest everyone avoids the listed climbs until it's clear what the ravens are doing.
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    Avon Gorge (Unknown Area)

    Avon and Somerset