A dolerite crag with quite a lot of history. Owned and managed by the BMC, the crag contains some of the very best outcrop climbing anywhere, mainly multi pitch and all grades from V.Diff to E7. The name in Welsh means 'The Crag of the Pass of the Pigs'
Recent work on the Ash trees has now been completed, this has been statutory work that has been undertaken, due to Ash Dieback, please see link below.
Merlin - The flake on the second pitch has come down. There is still some loose blocks at the 1st belay so care must be taken over building a safe belay, and the Rienetta slab first pitch still has alot of loose rock. However the upper pitch is pretty clean now, however definitely goes at a harder grade.
Ash Dieback has been identified to be prominent at the crag, please be aware that this can severely weaken ash trees. Visit the following website Ash Dieback (Hymenoscyphus fraxineus) - Woodland Trust for more details on how to identify ash trees.
Climbing Area:
Wales
Rock Type:
Igneous
Importance:
International
CRoW Land:
Yes
Ownership:
BMC Owned
No. of Routes:
191
Within National Park:
Yes
Year Developed:
1951
Grid Reference:
SH 57746 40601
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Restrictions apply from
1 April
-
31 May.
Reason: Nesting Birds
2021 - Tawny Owls frequently nesti in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab unti the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Parking and Approach
2022 Parking Update, Hadfer Glamping Site are now open for parking from 8am untill 8 pm every day. Please pay via the JUST PARK APP.
If you are climbing longer than these hours please park consideratly in laybys, either about a kilometre towards Tremadog village or about half a kilometer to the east towards Prenteg and walking in.
Group Advice
Suitable - but can be very busy, especially at weekends, and a lack of low grade single pitch routes can make it difficult for novice groups.
A wide range of cliffs - mainly traditional and multi pitch inc. the popular Llanberis Pass, Idwal Slabs, Clogwyn du'r Arddu and Cwm Silyn cliffs, but also outlying outcrops such as Carreg Alltrem. Many crags are on CROW access land - but not all especially some of the outcrops which lie on private enclosed land. Most of central Snowdonia is both designated an SSSI and also is an European Special Area of Conservation on account of the upland habitat and associated geology and plants found here.
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag