New bolted anchors were installed in August 2020 (following discussion and agreement at Peak Area meetings,) to replace tree lower offs which had been removed during unsanctioned work in 2017. These anchors are setup to use for belay, abseil or lower off; with two stainless steel resin bolts, connected with stainless chain to a ring. As with all fixed anchors, if multiple people are going to climb a route and lower off or top rope, climbers should use their own carabiners to attach the rope to the anchor, with only the last climber re-threading and using the ring to prevent wear to the in situ equipment.
A list of the anchors and the routes they serve (in Peak Limestone North) is below, with the numbers relating to the marked up crag image in photos:
1: Best Forgotten Groove to Therianthropic (routes 4-6) Jackorner to November Wall (routes 7-10) Carmal to Rentaghost (routes 11-13)4: The Arete to The Cardinal (routes 14-17) Carmen to Carmen Mirander (routes 22-23) Carmen Mirander to Lizzie (routes 24-26) Ash Tree Arete to Ash Tree Slab (routes 27-28)Central Arete to Clothesline (routes 22-36) The Fly to Burst (routes 37-39)The Bender to Terrace Wall Direct (routes 40-41)Right Arete to A Pig in the Middle (routes 43-45)
Other considerations:
As with many limestone trad crags, loose and friable rock can feature on the crag – be alert to this and consider wearing a helmet.
Significant rock instability has been identified at the left side of the crag around the cave entrance (Sword and Stone to Hidden Corner ), and right of A Pig in the Middle . These parts of the crag have significant areas of potentially unstable rock which could fall at any time and should be avoided.
There is a cable handrail at the top of the crag to aid climbers passing a ‘bad step’ – do not belay from this cable as it is not sufficiently strong to use as an anchor.
Fly tipping has been an issue at the crag in the past - please report any dumped material to the BMC Access Team and note down any vehicle number plates if you see the perpetrators in action.
Parking and Approach
Parking for around 4-5 carefully parked cars is available through the gate at the base of the crag.
Rockfall is possible from the sections of crag above the parking area - parking is at your own risk.
CRoW Information
Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.