Aldery Cliff

Peak Limestone

User attention

As the Covid-19 lockdown eases, access for climbing is opening back up, subject to some measures and restrictions depending on where you are going. Please make sure you have read and understood our current advice before heading out and apply it alongside RAD advice to ensure access issues don’t develop. from 25/03/2020

Located near the quiet Derbyshire backwater of Earl Sterndale, Aldery is a little gem of limestone trad climbing that catches plenty of sun year round. Slabby pitches and the odd steeper offering provide fun lines from easy into mid-extremes in a lovely wooded quarry that is the very definition of roadside, whilst still maintaining a quiet ambiance just about anyone can enjoy.  

Crag information
Climbing Area: Peak District Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: BMC Owned No. of Routes: 59
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1959
Grid Reference: SK097663

Owned by the BMC since 1984 for the benefit of climbers. Abseil/lower off anchors that have previously been in place at the top of the crag are no longer there, meaning topping out on routes is now obligatory.These top outs can sometimes involve steep grassy slopes or loose rock and climbers may want to consider pre-placing a rope from anchors above to the edge of the crag to either lower off from or pull up on to top out. Importantly, it should be noted that the cable handrail running partway along the top of the crag is not suitable for use as a belay anchor.

Routes on the left side of the crag near the cave entrance and the right side of the crag below the obvious overhang are best avoided, the stability of the rock in these areas is questionable. The situation is being monitored but there could be significant rockfall from these two areas at any time.

Flytipping and litter from bbqs/parties has periodically been an issue at the crag with bin liners full of rubbish collected on cleanup days in the past and BMC signage torn down. Please report any flytipping/vandalism to the BMC and note down any vehicle number plates if you see the perpetrators in action.

July 2019 update: Carmen and Mitre Cracks have been reported as currently having unavoidable loose rock around their top outs. These routes in particular would benefit from a pre-placed abseil rope running from the large trees set back above the crag to allow climbers to avoid the top outs, but this also applies to other routes on the crag. As with many limeston crags, consider wearing helmets at Aldery, especially given the potential for loose rock to be unexpectedly knocked off onto those below.

CRoW Information

Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.

Area information

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

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eggs in a nest in crack in top section of "broken toe" 22.05.20