Regional Access Database

Advice Craig Ty Newydd

A very sheltered limestone cliff, containing a small collection of excellent sports climbs, but with very specific access instructions.

BMC Area Wales Rock Type Limestone
Climbing Area Northern Limestone (Inland) Access Status Advice
County Clwyd CRoW Land No
Importance Local No. of Routes 16
Ownership Private Year Developed 2010
Within National Park No Grid Reference SJ068797





Update Sept 2013



Access has been restored subject to the information below



 



This crag is now subject to a seasonal restriction to protect the interests of the landowner and leaseholder , in particular the rearing of birds (pheasants) at the base of the crag. Please adhere to this restriction and do not climb here between September29th and February 1st inclusive.



In addition June 22nd to Sept 28th, climbing restricted to 1 hour after sunrise, and all climbers to have vacated the crag 90 mins before sunset.



Climbing here is only allowed with the kind permission of the landowner  and the shooting syndicate who lease the site as a location for rearing and shooting game birds. Access should only be as described in the current version of the A55 Sports -Climbs guidebook, unless indicated by on site signs. Strictly no dogs allowed at any time.



The crag is on private land and there is not right of access but the farmer at nearby Ty Newydd farm (on the left of the A5151 towards Trelawnyd), Mr Jones, has been most amenable and has very kindly agreed to permit climbing so long as the access stipulation, car parking and approach designated is used.



1. No access to the crag from 29th September to 1st February inclusive (shooting days).



2. Follow the agreed approach route - from the 'Dyserth to Prestatyn walkway' car park, follow the walkway towards Prestatyn to a bridge. Go right before the bridge, up some steps then make your way through two kissing gates, across a footbridge to a track - turn left and follow to a fence. Turn right and follow this fence to another fence surrounding a cultivated area, til you get to a gate - go through this into a small wooded valley and the crag should appear magnificiently on your left.



3. No dogs at any time and no exceptions.





Restrictions apply from  29 September - 1 February. Reason - Other








Not suitable for large groups - due to senistive access it suggested that if this crag is busy that people may want to consider visiting at another time.





This area includes Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment, Castle Inn, Penmaenhead as well as other crags along the A55 corridor.
Many of the crags, including Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas escarpment and Castle Inn all lie within land designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest, and vegetation removal, modification of rock faces, removal of rocks, etc. should be avoided.

  
This page was last updated on 23/09/2013. RAD is updated as and when access changes and a historic date does not mean that the information is out of date, only that the access situation hasn't changed.