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Cilan Head Area

The Lleyn

A mega-adventure sea-cliff, on the Lleyn peninsula, with some truly awesome and committing climbing. A complex area with obfuscated approaches on steep grass slopes adds to the excitement. However there are also some pleasant, less serious routes on the west side that deserve more attention from the mid-grade climber.

New restrictions have been agreed with the RSPB and BMC. 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Sandstone
Importance: National CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Private No. of Routes: 200
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1960
Grid Reference: SH295231

Early in the nesting season please be aware that there could be nesting ravens on unrestricted cliffs and if spotted please chose another route.

Restrictions apply from 1 February - 31 July.

Reason: Nesting Birds

New Restrictions are as followed, these have been agreed with the RSPB and members of the BMC. Full restrictions are in place from the 1st of Febuary until the 31st July on the following crags:

Back of bay between Trwyn y Ffosle and Trwyn Melyn

Fisherman’s Zawn    OS Ref 287241

Chinatown Zawn OS Ref 287239

Trwyn y Fulfran Slabs  OS Ref 287238

Black Bay OS Ref 288237

Through Cave Area OS Ref 291235

Multi Storey Wall OS Ref 294232

Mur y Môr OS Ref 294232

Trwyn Cilan Zawn OS Ref 294230 

Crystal Zawn SH 29329 

Vatican Zawn  OS Ref 295231

 

There are some Areas that have split restrictions. 

Paitsh South Bay - No Restrictions to the left of the Abseil Line, but restrictions as above up to and including Springboard ridge. 

Zawn One - No Restrictions above the boulder slope then restricted as above for all climbs below sloping terrace. 

 

There are short restrictions from the 1st of April, to June 30th at the following locations. 

Paitsh North Bay - No restrictions to Hornblower Spur then a short restriction. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CRoW Information

On CROW land (registered Common Land)

Group Advice

Not suitable

Area information

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

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    Cilan Head Area

    The Lleyn