Regional Access Database

Advice Castell y Gwynt

Atmospheric crag with 'out there' routes and some big numbers.

BMC Area Wales Rock Type Limestone
Climbing Area The Ormes Access Status Advice
County Conwy CRoW Land Yes
Importance National No. of Routes 15
Ownership Local Authority Year Developed 1976
Within National Park No Grid Reference SH757845

Restrictions apply from  1 March - 25 June. Reason - Nesting Birds

Update June 25th 2015 - the restrictions have been lifted early as the birds have succesfully fledged.

The permanent nesting restriction covers the whole crag. Several protected species nest on the crag and above the descent gully, and if present the whole crag is restricted between the above dates. Keep an eye/ear open for the birds and for signs on the approach. If the birds fledge early or fail to nest then the signs will be removed.


The routes on the left hand side that are approached by abseil (Opal Moon) are also restricted due to nesting sea-birds.


The Great Orme Due to the proximity of the public highway at Upper Pen Trwyn (Great Orme) and the breeding bird colonies, a number of special arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and the local authority to reduce the risk to the public and to conservation. The whole of the Orme is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and an European Special Area Of Conservation whcih mean that the natural features are legally protected. - Climbing above the Marine Drive (Upper Pen Trwyn, Great Orme) is only permitted after 6.00pm during all Bank Holiday weekends and school summer holidays (15 July to 8 Sept). - Green and red marker posts indicate the open and restricted areas. Also see the Onsight North Wales Limestone guidebook. - The bolt lower-offs at UPT were installed by the BMC so climbers do not need to exit over unstable cliff top. - The Marine Drive is a one-way road, do not drive back down the road towards the gate-house after climbing - this could jepordise access. There have been recent issues with cars blocking the Marine Drive near to Parisellas cave, and climbers are requested to be aware that large vehicles (inc. double decker buses!) do need to be able to get past. -some of the crags that lie below the Marine Drive are also subject to seasonal climbing restrictions due to nesting birds, refer to individual crag entries for more info. West Shore crags - including Craig Heulog. No climbing permitted at any of these crags (above or below the Marine Drive) due to very high conservation interest. The Little Orme The restrictions for public safety at the Great Orme (Upper Pen Trwyn) do not apply to the Little Orme. However, a number of the crags are restricted for nesting seabirds - see individual crag entries for more info.

This page was last updated on 29/06/2015. RAD is updated as and when access changes and a historic date does not mean that the information is out of date, only that the access situation hasn't changed.