Craig Pen Trwyn

The Ormes

Includes all of the routes above the Marine Drive, including Mayfair Wall, The Cutaway, Gold Walls, Excursion, Pill box Wall, Yellow and Black Walls, etc.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Local Authority No. of Routes: 171
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1972
Grid Reference: SH 78062 83451

Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.

Respect The Ormes - YouTube

No climbing on the routes above the Marine drive before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th this includes Mayfair Wall, the restriction extends to bank holiday weekends as well. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.

All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted. 

Restrictions apply from 25 March - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June. 

 

An additional restriction on Excursion Wall for No Bark, No Dill to Call it Black (Inclusive) due to a new nesting Choughs site. 

Parking and Approach

Do not block the Marine Drive- buses and emergency vehicles have struggled to get past on busy days. There are yellow lines close to Parisellas's cave and cars been ticketed here. 

Area information

The Great Orme Due to the proximity of the public highway at Upper Pen Trwyn (Great Orme) and the breeding bird colonies, a number of special arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and the local authority to reduce the risk to the public and to conservation. The whole of the Orme is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and an European Special Area Of Conservation whcih mean that the natural features are legally protected. - Climbing above the Marine Drive (Upper Pen Trwyn, Great Orme) is only permitted after 6.00pm during all Bank Holiday weekends and summer holidays (15 July to 8 Sept). - Green and red marker posts indicate the open and restricted areas. Also see the Onsight North Wales Limestone guidebook. - The bolt lower-offs at UPT were installed by the BMC so climbers do not need to exit over unstable cliff top. - The Marine Drive is a one-way road, do not drive back down the road towards the gate-house after climbing - this could jepordise access. There have been recent issues with cars blocking the Marine Drive near to Parisellas cave, and climbers are requested to be aware that large vehicles (inc. double decker buses!) do need to be able to get past. -some of the crags that lie below the Marine Drive are also subject to seasonal climbing restrictions due to nesting birds, refer to individual crag entries for more info. West Shore crags - including Craig Heulog. No climbing permitted at any of these crags (above or below the Marine Drive) due to very high conservation interest. The Little Orme The restrictions for public safety at the Great Orme (Upper Pen Trwyn) do not apply to the Little Orme. However, a number of the crags are restricted for nesting seabirds - see individual crag entries for more info.

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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Anonymous User
18/04/2019
School holiday restrictions listed appear to be at odds with the North Wales Limestone Guide. Amendment needed. Should read 15/07 - 08/09
Anonymous User
04/05/2019
I have made this comment before.. the dates for school holiday restrictions are at odds with those contained in the N Wales limestone guide.